BLUEBELLS

Another bulb to plant this time of year blooms as an erect spike of bell-shaped flowers--BLUEBELLS--  although they can actually be blue, white or pink flowers.  They bloom in mid spring, and form clumps of strap-shaped leaves.  They grow to be 8-16" plants, and self-sow and produce lots of offsets.  The plants can be left in place to form large, beautiful clumps.  The bulbs are hard to tell which side is up or down.  If you absolutely can't tell,  plant these bulbs 3 inches deep and 6" apart on their sides.  BLUEBELLS have been reclassified by botanists several times--and they've also been called Spanish Bluebells, English Bluebells, and a few others.  They make good cut flowers and are good in arrangements.  The only thing you need to be careful of is, some gardeners develop skin allergies to the foliage and the flowers, so be advised to wear gloves when working with the bulbs or the foliage.   They are hardy in zones 4-9, in either sun or shade, but I think they do best in at least partial sun.  They bloom a little later than the late single tulips, and last a long time.  I love the beautiful true blue of the nodding bells! 

MULCH IS THE ANSWER!!

If you want a way to save yourself from hours of weeding and watering, MULCH is the answer!  Mulch has many benefits for your beds:  It provides a great buffer layer between your soil and the elements above it.  It keeps the weeds from getting the light they need to grow, and for those that do grow, their roots don't really get a foothold, and so they are very easy to pull out.  Mulch is really anything you can use to cover your soil and improve your plant growth--there are organic mulches, including chopped leaves, bark, straw, or thin layers of grass clippings.  They decompose into humus, and greatly increases your soil's structure and fertility.  And there are inorganic mulches, such as sheet plastic or landscaping fabric covered with decorative material.  They reduce weed problems, keep the soil cool and moist, and reduce erosion.  Another neat thing about mulch is that it provides great climate control for your plants.  It insulates the soil from hot summer temperatures.  Some plants, like clematis, need full sun for their vines and flowers, but need their roots mulched to keep them moist and cool.  Mulch shades the soil and actually conserves soil moisture.  Then as colder temperatures come, the mulched soil stays warmer than unmulched soil, and can actually extend the growing season by several weeks.  This is great for fall-planted perennials, which may need extra time for their root systems to develop before freezing weather arrives.  Mulch also is very  helpful for fluctuating winter temperatures--freezing and thawing, which contributes to heaving.  This isn't a big problem when you mulch.  Another neat thing about mulch is that rains can penetrate easily to moisten the soil below.  I have my soaker hoses below the mulch, and so the soil gets thoroughly watered in dry spells.   So, to summarize, mulches help in many ways, including:

• Mulches keep the soil moist longer by slowing the evaporation process to almost nothing 
• It softens the impact of pelting rain, reducing soil compaction, erosion and nutrient leaching
• Mulch keeps mud from splashing on plant foliage, which reduces the spreading of many plant diseases
• Mulch can help to filter out fungal spores that can be washed to the ground by heavy rains, like the fungus that causes rose blackspot
• Mulched soils stay loose and crumbly instead of becoming hard-packed and crusted, which causes shallow roots

If you use lawn clippings, let them dry out before using, in  about a 4-inch layer. They can also help build soil structure.  If chopped leaves are what you're using, chop or compost them so they don't mat down.  Put them on in late fall or early winter in a 3-inch layer.  Leaves also build soil up.  If pine needles are what you want to use,  put down 2-4", but pine needles do tend to acidify the soil.  They are especially good to use for acid-loving plants, like hydrangea, and act as a soil builder as well.  Bark nuggets don't help to build soil, but are more decorative, and very easy to use.  This is what I use the most.  I have bark along the perimeter of the yard where I have a long row of roses. It keeps this bed weed-free, which is great because I don't need to worry about getting pricked by thorns to weed.  It also helps to insulate them in our harsh Utah winters.  Apply bark in a 2-3" layer, being careful not to to get it too close to the main stem of your plant--leaving 2-3" space.  You can use straw or hay, but I think it's messy, and they contain more weed seeds, and I also didn't like it when the wind blew it all around the yard.  You also have to put down about 6" , which is another reason I found it not too fun to use.  I've seen some  people use newspaper, but it needs to be covered with some type of decorative material, like pebbles or rock.  And then, of course, there are the plastic sheeting and landscape fabrics that you put down and cover with rocks, pebbles or decorative material.  I really don't like using these for areas with growing plants, however.  I think by cutting small holes, then planting your plants, these materials don't allow for growing, spreading bases of your plants.  At any rate, mulches are a wonderful way to implement in your beds so you'll have less watering and weeding, and they are well worth the time it takes to put  down! 

SINGLE LATE TULIPS - THE MOST POPULAR TULIPS OF ALL TIME

SINGLE LATE TULIPS comprise most of the hundreds of tulips I have in the different beds in the yard.  They are among the latest flowering tulips available, and probably the reason I love them so much is that they are the tallest, with some of the largest blooms, and have the most diversity in their color range.  These gorgeous award-winners have a super genetic vitality, with elegant, lily-shaped blooms.  I have several different hybrids, reaching 30" in height, and when fully open, their blooms stretch a full 8-10"!  (That's a HUGE tulip!)  There is nothing quite so glorious than a bed full of single late tulips!  I love Temple of Beauty, and several of its sports--Blushing Beauty, Blushing Lady, and Perestrokya.  I also love Big Smile and Temple's  Favorite.  Fall is the proper time to plant your tulip bulbs.  I like to plant a few groups each year, adding to what I've got.  I mark the places I need them early in the season when the others are blooming.  This keeps the beds looking vigorous.  I find that the first year the tulips bloom is usually their largest.   I fertilize them as soon as their greenery emerges, and again right after they have bloomed with a good bulb fertilizer, or balanced ferilizer.  Tulips go with all of the plants I can think of.  Their yellowing foliage is the one drawback.   To let the foliage yellow completely is, I have to say, very hard to do.  So, to make it easier, plant your tulips so that other perennials will grow up and hide the yellowing leaves.  This way the bulbs will get the nourishment that they need in order to have good bloom next year.

FALL - THE BEST TIME TO PLANT PEONIES

Peonies are, as I've mentioned before, in my top 10 favorite perennials, and now is the proper time to plant these beauties!  For fall planting, they come bare-root, with 3-5 "eye" divisions.  (Eye is the industry term used for "bud").  They are usually shipped out in September through November, depending where you live.  I ordered a beautiful herbaceous peony to plant this fall, "Party Time", and it should be here any day now for fall planting.  Planting in fall gives the peony time to take root and all the energy goes into the root, not into leaves, as it would if planted in spring. The exception is if you buy container-grown plants and plant them in the spring.  The little red buds, or eyes that you see will be the top of the plant.  You should have at least 3 healthy-looking buds.  If they look dried out, you can soak them in water for a few hours before planting.  Always try to plant your roots as soon as you get them.  If you can't, moisten the packing material or "heel-in" the roots in a shady spot in your garden until you can.  Make sure your hole is deep and wide enough to accommodate the grown plant--usually 12-18".  If you need to, add some compost and mix in.  I always add a handful of bonemeal as well, and mix it in with the soil.  (I do need to add that bonemeal may attract dogs--they think there may be a bone buried there--so you may want to protect the spot after planting to avoid that trouble).  Space plants so that they will have plenty of room to grow to maturity--usually about 3-4 feet.  I have some of mine a  little closer, and so I have to ring them in spring to make room for other perennials in my limited areas.  The most important thing to remember when planting is DON'T PLANT TOO DEEPLY.  (They most likely will not bloom if you do).  The eyes should be no deeper than 2 inches below the surface of the soil.  2 inches gives them the winter protection they need.  I've learned that if they're in a newly prepared site, the soil and roots usually tend to settle, so plant a little shallower.  After planting, water in well  and mulch to prevent heaving in the winter--this only needs to be done in their first year, however.  Over the past few years, I have added some beautiful peonies.  Pictured here are some of my favorites.  I think there are few blooms that are more beautiful in late spring!

VIRGINIA BLUEBELLS

Another one of my favorite shade plants is the VIRGINIA BLUEBELL.  I was so taken by a drift of them in a garden that I ordered some last year.  Although mine haven't spread into a drift yet, they were beautiful last spring.  I especially love their vibrant green, big, oval-shaped leaves.  Now is the time to plant them if you want spring blooms.  Their nodding flowers are wonderful in naturalized woodland settings.  I have them in the upper corner, under the boughs of a giant pine, among the hosta, ferns, primrose, and spring flowering bulbs of daffodils and tulips.  One of the reasons they go so well in areas of those perennials is that when they go dormant, the hostas 'fill in' that area and it still looks good.  They are very hardy, and grow  1-2 feet tall and bloom in early spring with beautiful blue, nodding clusters of flowers.  They like moist, rich, humus-filled soil, and naturalize especially well under deciduous trees, rhododendrons, and shrubs.  Because they go dormant in summer, be sure to mark them so you won't accidentally dig into them during the rest of the year.  And, if you need to divide them, do it in the summer--you'll easily find them in your marked areas. Protect them from slugs and snails, as they are a real treat for them. 

FLOWER ARRANGEMENTS SHOULD MIMIC YOUR FLOWER BEDS

When you plan and plant your flower beds, the best beds utilize the three basic flower shapes.  Your arrangements should also have a variety of these three shapes:  elongated or spiked, round, and filler.  Elongated, or spiked, flowers give a feeling of movement, and they help to develop the structure of the arrangement.  I put these in first when arranging; they give the arrangement its line.  They include lupine, bells-of-Ireland, larkspur, snapdragon, stock, salvia, tall  bearded iris, gladiola, delphinium, and monkshood.  Round flowers will naturally become the focal point of your arrangement.  They join the lines, stopping your eye and getting your attention.  They include dahlia, geranium, rose, gerbera, marigold, zinnia, scabiosa, daisy, sunflower, peony, and poppy. Filler, or transition, material softens the arrangement, gives it fullness, and brings the arrangement together, equalizing the arrangement.  These are the feathery, or airy flowers or leaves, such as baby's breath, cosmos,Jacob's ladder, fern leaves, spider flower, bachelor's-button, and bush delphinium.  Flowers should be picked just as the buds are opening, either early in the morning, before the sun is up, or late in the evening.  These are times when the moisture and sugar content are high in the blooms.  Cut the stems at an angle with sharp scissors and plunge them immediately in warm water while your arrange.  When you arrange, re cut the stems under water.  Be sure you remove all foliage that would be under water to keep  your water clean and give the bloom the longest vase life as possible.  (If you have time, "harden off" the flowers by placing in a cool, dark area for several hours or overnight before arranging).  And, of course, if you want the longest vase live, don't place in full sun or in the draft of an air conditioner.  You can also add a floral preservative to the water.  One of the things that causes the flowers to wilt quickly is the bacteria that builds up in the water.  So changing the water every day helps with this a lot.  The preservative inhibits the build up of this bacteria, prolonging the life of your arrangement.  I enjoy arranging, and the more I do, the better I become.  I always study arrangments from the florist when I'm out and about, and experiment when I can with different color combinations and sizes and shapes of flowers.  If you've got blooms in the yard, a nice arrangement is always a beautiful addition to any room.  Happy arranging!

PLANT NOW, ENJOY LATER!

I've been focusing on planting now in your beds for your spring pleasure.  Fall bulbs need the cold weather in order to bloom successfully in the spring, so fall is the perfect time to get them in the ground.  Try to plant your bulbs as soon as you get them, in a sunny spot in soil that is rich in organic matter and well drained.  As a general rule, plant 3 times their size deep, and about 4-6" apart, or however apart the instructions tell you. Remember that their roots come out of the bottom, so they will grow best if they're sitting on top of several inches of good soil.  When planting, you can plant a few different ways:  You can dig a separate hole for each bulb; you can dig a hole and place several in; or you can have an entire area prepared by digging up several inches of soil, then place the bulbs down, then cover with the soil you've dug up.  I've done all three, and it depends on where I've planted and the condition of the bed.  Also, keep the papery "tunic" on them whenever possible, and set them in with the pointed side up.  If you can't tell which side is up, place it on its side.  Don't add fertilizer to to holes; top-dress the planting site with a balanced fertilizer after.  After planting, water in well, then cover them with 1-2" mulch.  This prevents the onset of frozen soil when it gets colder, and gives them a longer time to grow their roots.   Happy planting!  Your efforts will be well-rewarded in the spring!  Here's some shots of the yellow and red beds last spring--their bright and cheery colors make me look forward to the days ahead!

DUTCH IRIS - AN EASY-TO-GROW BULB

DUTCH IRIS are easy to grow bulbs that are usually purchased in fall along with the tulip and daffodil bulbs.  They grow in average to rich, well-drained soil in full sun or at least in a site that is sunny in spring, but can be shaded in summer and fall with deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves in the fall and re-leaf in the spring).  To bloom reliably, they need a warm, dry spot during their summer dormancy.  If your area is wet through the season, they won't do well, and you most  likely will lose them.  To prevent this, they can be dug after their foliage ripens, and stored in a brown paper bag in a warm, dry, dark place, then replanted in the fall. (This actually gives them the 'ripening' period that they require).   I've also heard that you shouldn't replant them in the same place for best results.  Plant them now, in the fall, being careful to plant them with perennials that don't need watering in the summer, like a site along the top of a wall, raised garden, or, I've found that a rock garden, or against a cement retaining wall works well because this helps provide the hot, dry soil they require in the summer.  They like to be fed with bone meal, or I like triple super phosphate.  They bloom after the tall bearded iris, in late spring, on about 24" stems.  They make excellent cut flowers, but I'm careful how I use them in arrangements, because sometimes so much of the stem is cut off that they don't bloom well the next year, because the stem is what "feeds" the bulbs for the next year. I usually order some new ones each year for those that I might lose. They aren't very expensive, and so it's easy to replace them.  I've just received an email that my new dutch iris bulbs are on their way, so I'll be planting mine in the next few days.  They add that 'something special' to the beds that I really enjoy.

DAFFODILS - EARLY SPRING BLISS!

Yesterday I received my first shipment of spring bulbs to plant this fall.  It was daffodils--PINK DAFFODILS!  I ordered from a mail order company earlier in the year at a special price.  I ordered 6 different varieties, 10 of each.  So, 60 beautiful blooms of different combinations of pink and white will be planted as soon as possible and they will be among the first flowers to bloom next spring.  Earlier in the season, I marked the 6 different places in the garden that I need to plant them.  This ensures that I won't accidentally dig into other bulbs, since their foliage has long-since disappeared, and I want them to be pleasingly interspersed in the garden.  Daffodils belong to the genus Narcissus--so daffodils and narcissus are really the same thing.  Jonquils, however, belong to a different genus.  They come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and most come back year after year, increasing their clumps over time.   One thing I really like about them is that they are not bothered by deer or rodents because of the bitter poison, lycormine, that keep them away. I've pictured some of my favorite daffodils that we have in the yard in the collage--my very favorite is ICE FOLLIES--a very large cupped, tall, white petaled daffodil, with a frilled, creamy yellow flat crown that eventually turns white.  It's a good forcer, and it naturalizes well (increases every year).  I also love SMILING SUN--a beautifully, perfectly formed, sparkling white-petaled daffodil with a clear yellow perianth.  It increases as well.  They do well in arrangements, lasting a long time. I like the fall--it gives me a chance to cut down everything, get the beds cleaned up, raked, and new bulbs and perennials divided or planted.  I love it when the beds look manicured--a far cry from the wild jungle I feel I have right now!   

PRAYING MANTIS - A FRIEND TO YOUR GARDEN

I have loved praying mantis' ever since I was a child, and so when I saw this one in the yard today, I took some pictures and decided to write about them.  They are absolutely harmless in your gardens, so if you see them, be sure to leave them alone.  Even though they are ferocious-looking, they are actually very beneficial insects in your beds.  They are a member of the grasshopper family (and if you've read my blog in the past, you know that earwigs and grasshoppers are my two LEAST favorite PESTS in the garden), but I love these graceful, docile insects.  They feed on grasshoppers, aphids, mites, caterpillars and other harmful insects.  They are long and thin, with prominent eyes and enormous front legs, often held up in a praying-like motion; hence the name "Praying Mantis."  They use their front legs to 'catch' their prey.  They lay their "egg sacs" around this time of year--a 1 1/2-inch long gooey sac that dries and hardens that is usually 'glued' between your bricks, or under your rain gutter or the side of buildings.The egg sacs "hatch" with about 30-50 little tiny mantis' in late spring, when the temperatures get about 70 degrees.  I hope the one I saw today is ready to lay an egg sac.  I actually sent away for 6 egg sacs in March of 2008.  But this year I've only seen three in the yard, so I'm hoping for more next year.   If you're interested in sending away for egg sacs, GARDENING ZONE is the company I ordered from--you can go online and order in the spring.  They were $2.90 an 'egg case'.   

CROWN IMPERIAL - Fritillaria - EASY TO GROW BEAUTIES

The single, nodding, bell-like flowers of the FRITILLARIA, or CROWN IMPERIAL, are one of my favorite spring blooms.  The time to plant is now through fall.  Their clusters can have anywhere from 5-9 upside down 'bells', with a fun tuft of green on top.  They are easy to grow, and the old-fashioned flowers come in yellow, orange, and red.  They grow 2-4 feet tall, and bloom in early spring.  They like full sun or light shade in well-drained soil.  Be careful when purchasing bulbs--they can be fragile and need to be planted immediately.  If allowed to dry out before planting, it may prove fatal to your plant.  Plant them fairly deeply--the tops of the bulbs should be 5-6 inches below the surface of the soil.  Be sure to prepare the soil several inches below where the bulbs will sit, and provide rich and well drained conditions.  A hint when planting:  The crown imperial has kind of an open-crowned top, and this makes the bulb especially susceptible to rot if it gets a lot of moisture in it.  So, when planting, put 2-3 inches of builder's sand (sharp sand) in the bottom of the hole, then set the bulb on top of the sand on its side.  This will prevent loss of bulbs (I know from experience).  The bulbs are rather expensive, so it is worth the time to do this.  They will increase slowly, and you don't need to divide them until they become too crowded.  To do this, after they have bloomed and the foliage has ripened, dig them up and replant immediately where you want them.  The crown imperial can be intolerant of moisture after they bloom during the rest of the season, also, and so when they go dormant, mulch with pea gravel.  Most  mail-order companies have them for about $15-$25 each, but John Scheepers, a company you can go online to order, is offering them for a great price.  I ordered mine this year in a group of 5 for that price ($5.75 each)--that's by far the best deal I've seen this year!  I think you'll like the crown imperial in the middle of your beds.  And, if planted and taken care of properly, you should have them for many years to come!

BULB PLANTING-A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS!

I received an email the other day that one of my bulb orders has been shipped.  Mail orders will start arriving in late September, through October.  Oriental lilies can even be later--in November.  However, if you start preparing your soil now, you'll be ready when they arrive, or when you purchase some at your local nursery or variety store.  They like soil rich in organic matter, and well drained, but evenly moist.  A site that is wet will rot the bulbs. Bulbs are versatile, colorful, easy to plant, and I think every garden needs some.  Check on the planting guide of the bulb you are planting--some need sun, but others require shade.  They can be planted in large drifts, or small groupings--odd numbers look best--3, 5, 7, or 9.  Avoid the "soldier" look--single, straight rows.  Some have suggested randomly throwing a group of bulbs out and planting them where they land for a nice, natural look. You should plant your bulbs as soon as you get them for best results.  If you can't, however, store them in a dark, cool place until you can.  A general rule to follow is to plant the bulbs 3 times as deep as the bulb is in size.  This can mean you'll be planting anywhere from an inch or two, up to 8 inches deep for the larger bulbs. And, by planting bulbs of different bloom times, you can enjoy flowers for several months.  One of my favorite tulip bulbs is the flaming parrot--a huge yellow-turning-white and red lacy parrot, pictured in these photos.  I will be planting more of this beauty this fall.  When planting tulips, if you want them to increase, there are certain varieties that perform better for this. Otherwise, plan on replanting tulips every year or so to keep nice, big, vigorous blooms.  When large clumps begin to be too crowded and bloom less, that's a sign that they need to be divided.  You can dig them, and replant immediately where you want them.  Now through October is a good time to do this.  Be careful not to slice into bulbs when dividing; if you do, they will most likely rot after being planted.  When dividing, small bulbs can be replanted, but bare in mind that they probably won't bloom for a couple of years.  One thing is certain, though, a little work now in the beds will really pay off in the spring with beautiful blooms!

MILD TEMPERATURES, LONG NIGHTS, MORE RAIN = BEST TIME FOR TRANSPLANTING OR PLANTING NEW ARRIVALS!

With Autumn comes milder temperatures, bright, bug-free, frost-free days, and more rainy weather--and all these factors are most agreeable to gardeners and plants alike!  Fall is the perfect time for transplanting, which allows plants to get established before cold weather arrives.  If you're buying new plants, they will thrive in these conditions.  If plants need to be divided, certain varieties actually do better if done in fall rather than spring.  Additionally, some plants actually require fall planting--peonies, tall bearded iris (which should have already been planted in our area in July or August--but they can still be planted if you do it as soon as possible), oriental poppies, and I always plant my lilies and pansies in the fall, and, of course, all the spring flowering bulbs.  This fall I'll be planting lots of pink daffodils, some tulips, dutch iris, crown imperials, a new peony and oriental poppy, some dutch iris, and several flats of pansies.  I'll be transplanting some of my lupines  and hollyhocks to different places in the yard now that I know what color they are.  (These two biennials aren't always true to seed, and so if the seedlings bloom the first season and I can see the color,  I mark them for transplanting to different areas in the fall so in spring they will be where I need them).  That's a lot of work, but as the temperatures are mild, it's a pleasure to work in the yard, which I hate to say, I've rather neglected this past month because I've been letting several plants go to seed, which I don't do very often.  The bleeding hearts are more-than-ready to be cut down, as well as the Asiatic lilies and the daylilies.  This begins the fall clean up for me, with the rest being done in mid-to-late October through November.  Let me just say that the better the fall clean up, the easier the spring clean up is.  Enjoy the weather--I know I will!  These photos, taken last spring remind me of better days in the beds and makes me excited for fall clean up and why I continue to garden in fall even though things don't look so nice--so spring blooms will be wonderful!

PLANTING FOR THE CHANGING SEASONS

One of the things I love so much about where I live is that in Utah we have 4 distinct seasons--and planting the beds to maximize those seasons has big payoffs--the number of plants I can plant increases dramatically, and color almost year-round is so nice to have.  If you like different color schemes or looks, it's pretty easy to devise a different look for each season.  Take, for instance, the rock garden in the back yard--there are several distinct color schemes and looks throughout the year.  By layering bulbs, spring blooming perennials, miniature summer roses and summer blooming rock garden perennials, and finally fall garden mums, I have a different look four to five times a year.  It's fun to see the seasons come and go as I work in the rock garden.  The other beds have similar blooming seasons.  All the pictures I have in my posts do come from our yard, and it's because I utilize the seasons and their blooming potential that I can have so many different ones.  So, when buying plants, be sure to check their bloom season and growth habit, then you can plant accordingly.   

LATE SUMMER ARRANGEMENTS-BEAUTIFUL COLORS GALORE!

One thing I love about late summer when fall is in the air and the weather has cooled down a bit, is the beautiful vibrant colors in the flower blooms!  I love working with the flowers, although not as abundant as earlier, but wonderful, nonetheless.  The glads are winding down, the roses are on their 2nd to the last flush of blooms, and the dahlias and zinnias will keep growing and blooming through fall.  Here are some recent arrangements.

LANTANA

When I first saw LANTANA 6 years ago, I fell in love with this colorful plant.  It looked like a perennial, but in zones  below 7, it is an annual.  There are many different cultivars, all very colorful, and bright.  I especially like the Bandana series--they have the largest flowers in the lantana family.  Cherry Sunrise and Bandana Pink are my favorites.   I plant them where early blooming perennials, such as poppies, have died back in summer and there are bare spots. They open yellow, then mature to bright colors of apricot, pink, cherry and rose.  They love sun and will flower over many months, into the fall.  They grow to about 2-3 feet high and wide.  Pinch the plants to encourage branching.  In our northern climates, take root cuttings in late summer to overwinter indoors, or you can even dig individual plants to take in and then replant outdoors in the spring, when all danger of frost has passed.  With their spreading stems and bright blooms, they look best in the front of your beds, and they also do great in your potted planter boxes and containers.

HOSTA BLOOMS-AN ADDED BONUS IN LATE SUMMER/EARLY FALL

Although I grow HOSTA for their beautiful leaves of every color of green and hundreds of leaf variations, an added bonus is their BEAUTIFUL, FRAGRANT BLOOMS in late summer/early fall.  They come in colors of white, light purple, and  a medium purple.  I've used them in flower arrangements, and they add a nice touch.  They smell similar to lily of the valley--very fragrant!  They grow on tall stems, reaching about a foot, or more on some, above the luxurious leaves. The blooms on the Royal Standard hosta bloom in profusion, and are about 36' tall!   Remember to use slug bait on your hostas during the spring and summer, so that when their flowers are blooming, your leaves will be in good shape, not riddled with damage from slugs and snails.  I think it's the prettiest time of the year for them, and I'm always glad when I see beautiful, healthy leaves.  When they are done blooming, just snip the stem off close to the base.  I also cut down my hosta in late fall, making spring clean up much easier.  I've never had any problems with winter kill or anything from doing this--they are plenty hardy in zone 5.  I enjoy their beautiful fall color first, then after the first killing frost, I cut back the leaves to about 3 inches.  Spring clean up is so easy doing this!  Hosta are definitely among my top 25 favorite perennials!  If you don't have any, and have a shady spot, I highly recommend hosta--the only problem is that their are so many, you'll find it hard to choose a favorite to plant!

CHOCOLATE CREAM-CHEESE-FILLED CAKE SUPREME

One of our family's very favorite desserts year-round is our CHOCOLATE CREAM CHEESE-FILLED CHOCOLATE CAKE.  It's super easy, and very moist, rich and delicious!  It has a basic "dump-it" chocolate cake recipe, with a cream cheese chocolate chip filling.  It's so moist it doesn't need frosting, just a dusting of powdered sugar if so desired.  I bake mine a few different ways:  I either make it in three parchment-lined 9"-round cake pans, having 1 or 2 to freeze, as it freezes very well;  or baking 12 big muffins in the largest muffin tins, or in 24 regular cupcake tins, both with either liners or not, just greasing the tins.  (I usually don't make it in a 9X13 pan--sometimes I find the center doesn't bake as well).  But, any way to make them, they are sure to please!  Enjoy!

Chocolate Cream Cheese Supreme Cake
Batter:   3 Cup flour
             2 Cup sugar
             1/2 Cup cocoa
             1 tsp salt
             2 tsp soda
             3/4 Cup oil
             2 tsp vanilla
             1 egg
             2 Cup cold water
             2 Tblsp vinegar
Filling:   1 8-oz. cream cheese, softened
             1/2 Cup sugar
             1 egg
             1 tsp vanilla
             1 11-oz. pkg maxi Milk Chocolate Chips

Make filling by mixing in order listed.  Set aside.  For cake batter, dump all ingredients in large bowl.  Mix until blended.  Pour equally into parchment-lined 3 9"-round cake pans,12 giant muffin tins, or 24 regular cupcake tins, filling them 1/2 full, either in paper liners or greased tins.   (If making muffins or cupcakes, there will be cake batter left over).  Spoon filling into 3-5 areas in the round pans, and 1-2 Tblsp in the muffin tins, using up all the filling equally.  Bake at 350 until done, about 30 mins for the cake and big muffins, and 20 mins for the cupcakes, but check with a toothpick through the cake part of the dessert to test doneness.  Remove from tins, Cool.  Sprinkle with powdered sugar, if desired.  I like this cake especially after it's been chilled, but that's not necessary.  Keep leftovers, if any, in the refrigerator.

COOLER WEATHER HELPS OUT BLOOMS!

With the onset of some cooler weather, many of the plants that have struggled a bit are just exploding with color and new vigor--the dahlias and roses in particular!  We need to start thinking of encouraging the roses to enter dormancy, as the wood needs to harden off before cold temperatures begin.  After the next flush of blooms, in October, stop deadheading  the roses. (You need to stop  3-5 weeks before the first frost).  When they  enter dormancy, prune them all to about 3-4 feet so that the tallest canes won't break down in heavy snows in winter. This also helps them from being whipped around by winter winds and being damaged.  If any require winter protection, mound shredded bark around the base.  For dahlias, keep deadheading--the more you deadhead, the more prolific they become!  After the first frost, when the leaves have turned black, they need to be dug.  Carefully dig with a pitchfork, being careful not to puncture any tubers, shake off excess soil, and hang upside down for a few days in a dry, warm area.  Then layer tubers in vermiculite or peat moss, and place in a box or tub and keep in a cold area (around 40-45 degrees) over winter, which keeps the tubers viable to plant next spring!    ON ANOTHER NOTE:  the tiny little flower buds on the florists mums and garden mums are growing--they will bloom later on--in October and even November.  I can't wait--they will be stunning!  Enjoy these wonderful days ahead--I know I will!

BERGENIA-GROWN MOSTLY FOR ITS WONDERFUL FOLIAGE

One of my all-time favorite perennials is the BERGENIA.  Unlike most perennials, like hosta, bergenias are mostly grown for their beautiful, glossy, rounded, leathery leaves.  The foliage is evergreen and lasts through the winter, although it does get damaged in our harsh winters. The leaves are cabbage-like, and can be as long as 12 inches and as wide as 8 inches.  One of the most popular, the heart-leaved bergenia, and the kind I have, has 5-to 6-inch clusters of small, bell- or funnel-shaped rose-pink flowers, on top of tall, thick, ramrod-type stems that flower above the foliage.  It flowers in early spring, and when the flowers fade, just snip off the thick flower stems and enjoy the beautiful foliage the rest of the season.  As the fall approaches watch the beautiful transformation of fall color--to a reddish maroon.  They grow by thick, branching rhizomes that spread slowly into handsome clumps.  They grow best in partial or dappled shade, or in sun if the soil is evenly moist.  They are long-lived, non-invasive, and undemanding, and very easy to propagate by taking a section of the thick rhizome and planting it deep enough to support the big, heavy leaves, keeping it moist, but not wet, until it has successfully rooted.  You can do this any time, but I suggest early spring or fall.  Slugs like them, so you might need to scatter a slug bait to prevent that damage.  Other than that, I know of no other diseases or pests that bothers them.  I've planted mine among hosta, ferns, lungwort, forget-me-nots, and bleeding hearts at the front of the bed.  I highly recommend BERGENIA--definitely in my top 25 favorite perennials!!

FLOWERING SHRUBS - VIBURNUMS, FLOWERING ALMONDS AND FORSYTHIA

VIBURNUMS, FLOWERING ALMONDS  and FORSYTHIAS are shrubs or small trees that produce multi season interest to your gardens.  They are very undemanding, and some can have not only beautiful flowers in the spring, but colorful berries that birds love in fall and winter, and also bright foliage in the fall.  Forsythias are a sure sign of spring--their small, yellow, four-petaled flowers are abundant in spring, even before their leaves emerge.  All are hardy, and like full sun, and hummus rich soil, but will all tolerate light shade and average soil.  The ones I have all flower early, and so if they need pruning, they need to be done as soon as they flower in the spring, since they flower on old wood.  Be careful, however, in their pruning--be careful not to destroy their beautiful shape--their natural shape with arching branches is the most pleasing. They can be planted in spring or fall, and grow to be around 6-10 feet high and wide.  My Sargentii Viburnum has a 4-season interest, with showy red fruit in the fall that birds love, and bronze-purple foliage in the early spring, followed by yellow to red foliage in the fall. Its flat, white-topped clusters in spring have a center of small red/pink buds that pop as the season progresses.  People are always asking about this beautiful small tree because it is so showy.  The snowball viburnum has large, 5" across, snowball-type, sterile blooms that resemble hydrangeas.  When in bloom, they can be spectacular!  Flowering Almonds have abundant, wonderful pink blooms completely covering their  branches before the leaves appear, like the forsythia.  They are long-lived and pest free, adding a beautiful color in your early spring beds.  Just a simple cleaning up of the branches is all they need to keep looking nice and vigorous.  Lilacs have always been one of North America's popular plants.  Their very fragrant blooms appear in late spring to early summer, and can have either single or double blooms, in shades of pink, purple, magenta, violet, lavender-blue and white.  I even have a new yellow one called Primrose, that hasn't bloomed yet.  My very favorite is the white BEAUTY OF MOSCOW.  It's buds are a faint lavender-pink and it has white, big, double blooms! Lilacs can grow to be very big, but if you have limited space like me, choose varieties that don't grow as big, or you can continue to prune them to the size you want.  One drawback, if any, is that they don't have good fall color, but their showy, fragrant blooms in spring make up for that.  They are wonderful in flower arrangements--cut them when about half the flowers are open, and then slice up through the stem, or crush the stem with a sledge hammer.  Let them sit in  a deep bucket of  hot water over night before arranging for best results.  To rejuvenate your lilacs, remove 2 or 3 of the oldest branches each year, cutting them to the ground, and then  lettering the same amount of new ones grow, taking their place.  All lilacs get  lilac bore, and so to keep your plant as healthy as possible and steadily flowering, follow this procedure for successful and vigorous plants.  Avoid planting grafted plants, bare root plants will, in the long-run, have less suckers, which can outgrow the grafted plant and soon become over crowded and will not bloom well, spreading into  broad, unmanageable clumps.  Lilacs can get powdery mildew, so choose a site that has good air circulation.   So if you are looking for easy care shrubs or small trees, Lilacs, Viburnums and Forsythias are adaptable, easy-to-grow, and very showy in their season that I highly recommend.

ALLIUMS - ORNAMENTAL ONIONS

ALLIUMS are ornamental onions, related to onions, garlic, leeks, and shallots.  You can even smell their oniony aroma when close by, or when their foliage is bruised.  They produce small, starry or bell-like flowers in clusters, called UMBELLS, on top of hollow, unbranched stems.  The clusters can be round and very dense, or loose and graceful.  They can be anywhere from little 1-inch little pompoms, up to huge 7-inch balls.  I have them in white, true blue and shades of purple.  Their foliage emerges early spring--grassy straplike leaves.  Their leaves die back either just before or right after they bloom, which can leave an empty space when you cut them back, so keep this in mind and make sure you have other plants that can fill in their space, or cover up the yellowing leaves.  They grow from bulbs, planted at a depth of about three times the diameter of the bulb.  Plant them pointed end up, like a tulip bulb.  For ones that don't spread, I think they look best planted in clumps, planted close together.  They are very easy to care for--just be patient in cutting back the yellowing foliage too soon, as this provides food for the bulb's next year growth. (This is hard to do, thus, the importance of having another plant, like irises, daylilies, lavenders, pinks, lamb's ears, peonies, and various ground covers that can grow up to hide the yellowing leaves).  If they become crowded, you can easily just dig up the bulbs and plant them around in different areas.  You can do this in spring or fall, anytime after they have flowered, in full sun or part sun.  They grow anywhere from 12' tall, to some of the big ones, that will reach 3-5 feet--my purple Giant Gladiator is 4 feet tall.  I especially like my smaller Persian Blue, and Azure alliums, and my flat head white Jade Eyes.   ALLIUMS are  fun perennials to have--easy-to-grow, pest free, and they add a real personality to your beds.  I also like to use them in arrangements, their vase life is long, and the onion smell does go away after a day when using them in arrangements. 

SHOOTING STAR - DODECATHEON MEADIA

I love this perennial!  It has downward-pointing flowers, and the bright rose-purple color, offset by bright yellow tips, is sure to light up any shady spot, which is where you want to plant it.  The plants are about a foot high, and they are ephemeral (they go dormant after they flower in the spring).  The leaves even disappear, so I have a marker letting me know where it is the rest of the season.  I've never been able to get any seedlings from it, so if you wanted this cultivar, I'd suggest buying one at the nursery.  I love the great leaves it has--a wonderful shade of green, long and slender, with maroon veins and stems.  Another added bonus is that it grows in a nice mound, so it isn't invasive.  If you do need to divide, do so in the summer, after their leaves have turned yellow, but before they disappear.  You can separate them easily--they grow in crowns and have white fleshy roots. Be sure to replant immediately, as they dry out very quickly.  I haven't seen many of these perennials anywhere, but I sure do enjoy the ones I have.  I have them in the upper shade bed, with hosta, lenten rose, ferns, forget-me-nots, and bleeding hearts.  It is easy to take care of, and is hardy.  I have never had any pests bother it.  So, I think it's a great perennial to have!

JACOB'S LADDER - POLEMONIUM

JACOB'S LADDER, or Greek Valerian, or polemonium, is a great perennial!  It's a good plant if you're looking for a low-maintenance perennial, it's pest and disease resistant, and it has lovely fern-like foliage through the season, even when it's not in bloom with it's delicate blue or white flowers.  It likes humus-rich dry soil with light shade, and they are very hardy.  I have a blue flowering one with variegated leaves that is very nice, along with regular green fern-like foliage ones that flower white or blue.  I like to use them in arrangements; they are long-lasting, and a nice filler.  They are easy to divide, and it's best to do that in fall or early spring.  I've done it in both, and they both bloomed in the late spring to early summer after doing so. I keep mine divided every 3 years or so; they tend to get woody in the center if left too long without dividing, plus I also have space limits.  After they bloom, if you cut them down to the foliage, you can get another bloom in the season.  The only thing that I can say I don't like about Jacob's Ladder is its root system--it's heavily webbed and compact and close to the soil's surface--it's hard to explain--but I just don't like it very much.  But, I just make sure I plant things around it that that kind of root system won't be a problem.  I have Jacob's ladder among hosta, lilies, peonies, and bulbs like daffodils and tulips.   This time of year they usually begin a new foliage cycle, like columbine and poppies.   Just pull out the yellowing stems and you'll see new little ones starting to grow.  I really enjoy my Jacob's ladder, and if you are looking for a great, trouble-free hardy perennial, this one would work for you.  

EUPHORBIAS - CUSHION SPURGE

The best-known EUPHORBIA is a tropical plant commonly grown as a Christmas potted plant--the Poinsettia.  Lucky for us, Euphorbias have a vast and diverse genus, containing hardy, easy-to-grow perennials for full sun and partial shade as well.  Hardy euphorbias, also called CUSHION SPURGES, have insignificant flowers, surrounded by showy, petal-like bracts, that we call the flowers.  If you look at them, you can tell they are closely related to the poinsettia.  All euphorbias have a milky sap that you'll easily notice if you cut a stem or even if the leaves are damaged.  It could irritate your skin, so when working with euphorbias, it's wise to wear gloves.  Most euphorbias make attractive cut flowers.  When adding them to arrangements, sear the stem ends of both perennials and annuals over a candle or flame, or, you can dip the ends in boiling water to seal the sap.  This also prolongs their vase life.  Hardy euphorbias are grown for their spring and summer flowers, and they also have very pretty foliage, some of them evergreen.  Most euphorbias require a loose, well-drained soil and you can plant them in full sun to partial shade.  Mine does well with morning sun and dappled shade in the afternoon.  Cushion spurge has bright yellow-green flowers covering a nicely mound-shaped plant.  They bloom in early spring, when spring bulbs are blooming.  They can last to late spring if cool weather lasts.  They are compact, reaching about 1 1/2 feet high and wide.  They thrive in well-drained soil.  They look especially good with columbines, daylilies, lamb's ear, hostas, huchera and spring bulbs of all kinds.  It's a wonderful plant to have, and I enjoyed sharing many starts of it with friends this past spring. 

QUEEN OF THE PRAIRIE - MEADOWSWEET- Filipendula

QUEEN OF THE PRAIRIE, or sometimes called MEADOWSWEET, is a beautiful, airy, perennial filipendula with feathery plumes of pink or white from June through August. It tolerates severe winter temperatures, as well as far south areas with minimum winter temperature.  It also tolerates wet, or soggy soil.  I have it with Garden Pleasure tree lilies and my true blue salvia, and veronica.  It is particularly nice in bouquets.  It likes light shade, but will tolerate full sun.  It is a bold, dramatic plant that can grow to 6 feet tall, so plant it at the back of your border. It is native to meadows and prairies.  To grow well, plants must have moist, humus-rich soil. Some support may be necessary when plants are in bloom. I haven't divided mine yet, after 4 years, so I think it multiplies slowly (but it may be where I have it).  It is disease and pest resistant.  Just remember to keep it moist, because it dries out rather quickly in hot, dry temperatures.  It is a great perennial to have and I recommend it for the back of your border!

BELLS OF IRELAND-Moluccella laevis

I've always enjoyed seeing florist's arrangements that had the tall, stately, green-colored Bells of Ireland.  I didn't know that they were so easy to grow until I ordered some seeds three years ago.  I sowed them outside, but didn't have many that germinated.  But, the next year, I had many!  The seed lasted through the winter outside and was still viable.  And since they readily self-sow, this year I had so many I had to thin them!  So, I expect next year I'll have a good supply as well!  When planting seeds, don't cover with soil, as they need light to germinate.  It takes about a month for germination.  They like full sun or light shade. When using in floral arrangements, they look best when you remove the little side leaves that grow at the side of the 'bell.'  They are also very pretty when dried and used in dry flower arrangements.  They tend to fall over if they're in rich soil, so you may have to stake them, or ring them.  In fall, or when they have dried naturally on the stem, cut them down. Since they readily reseed, if you don't want seedlings, cut back before they go to seed.  I think you'd be happy with these unique-colored blooms in your gardens.

JAPANESE IRIS

Presently I have only one JAPANESE IRIS (ensata), and it is a real beauty!  Japanese Iris are beardless, round, flat, about 4-8"-wide flowers.  They bloom through mid-summer; and are on plants that form a clump, usually 2 - 2 1/2' high.  They have grass like leaves, and the flowers can be single or double.  I prefer the singles.  They have huge, showy falls, and their standards point downwards.  They come in a variety of violets, blues, purples, white, roses, pinks and I've even seen a wine red one.  I have the cultivar "Dimity."  It is a huge, (8" across), beautiful blue with white veining.  They grow in full sun, or partial shade, and like very rich, acidic soil.  They  like constantly moist soil, even boggy soil during times of active growth in the spring or summer, but in the winter it needs drier conditions, not constantly wet ones.  You need to space them about 9-12 inches apart, and to divide, do so in early spring or early fall every 3-4 years.  It's a good idea to mulch Japanese Iris, but be careful not to pile the mulch over the crowns.  What I like about Japanese Iris is that they are disease and pest resistant.  I think they are absolutely gorgeous!  If you have an area where you think they'd do well, I highly recommend Japanese Iris.  You can order them from mail-order catalogs, and some nurseries have them as well.