MARKING YOUR PLANTS

PLANT MARKERS are invaluable in the beds.  I use them for a number of reasons:  (1) So I can quickly identify which cultivar is which.  For instance, after the iris have bloomed, they all look alike.  So, I have the name of the iris on the marker to identify which iris it is.  The same goes for many other plants in the garden, like roses, poppies and peonies.  (2)  If a certain plant is late to emerge or break dormancy, the marker tells me where it is, reducing the risk of disturbing it, like the hosta or hibiscus. (3)  I also mark the areas where I want to plant things in the fall or spring.  An example of this is when the tulips and daffodils are blooming in the spring and there are some 'dead' areas where I want to plant more, I mark the spot where I want to plant them, and so when fall comes around, I know right where to plant.  I actually use T-Markers for the existing plants, and plastic table knives to mark planting areas.  I use clear knives, where I can write on the handle for the tulips, and  white plastic table knives for daffodils.  I also make a note in my plant booklet where I've put them, because in the fall, many plants have grown big and may cover up the knife marker.   (I started doing this after I had a hard time finding all the areas I had marked).  Other markers I have used are copper markers that you can emboss (these are pricey, though), 1" levelor slats (in 6" pieces),  tongue depressors or Popsicle sticks (These end up breaking or disintegrating--don't use!), and plastic forks (with the tines in the soil).  My favorite are the T-Markers.  I buy them at WalMart, but have seen them in other gardening stores.  You can also order plant labels from mail-order companies.  They come with a grease pencil, and I have found if I write nice and dark, it lasts for several seasons.  If it does fade, I simply re-write the name on, or if I need to change the name for some reason, I can use an eraser, and some elbow grease, and erase the existing name.  I have never had any break, and they are small enough to be inconspicuous, but big enough to write the names of plants on.  I recommend marking your plants--it's easy, inexpensive, and keeps things orderly in the garden bed.

GIANT HIBISCUS - ONLY A DAY'S BLOOM, BUT WHAT A BLOOM!

HIBISCUS are giant, 6-10-inch wide, disc-shaped flowers that bloom in summer in white, pink, red, or variations, on shrubby-like 4-8' plants.  Their flowers only last a day, similar to the daylily, but they have so many on the plant that they will bloom for weeks.  It's  important to deadhead these flowers immediately, because their spent blooms are pretty unattractive, looking kind of like limp tissue paper.  They are easy to grow in full sun or partial shade.  They do best in rich, moist soil.  They are the latest perennial I have to break dormancy, so mark the location of your clump so you won't accidentally dig into it or disturb it.  One thing that's neat about them is that seedlings may start to bloom the very first year.  If your clump gets too big for your area, you can divide them, but they are hard to divide, because their clumps are VERY woody.  When I divided mine, it was about 3 years old and I spent a long time doing it.  It was difficult, but it survived and bloomed the next spring (I divided in fall, after the plant was done blooming).  When we went to Kauai last year, one thing I loved was the vast variety of Hibiscus.  Because of this, I added two more to my flower beds.   (I already had three).  They will bloom in July.  I loved Kauai--they call it "The Flower State."  I was amazed at the unusual, breath-taking, and distinct varieties of flowers of every kind, they had! They have so many--sadly, ones that wouldn't make it in our zone.  There were even some yellow hibiscus (rare here)  that were especially beautiful!  I want to go again just to see the flowers--especially the Hibiscus!   When mine bloom, it will remind me of Kauai!

HEUCHERAS / ALUMROOTS - ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE and FLOWERS

One perennial that has been widely hybridized recently is the HEUCHERA. Their mound-shaped ornamental foliage comes in an assortment of colors and showy leaves.  I have them in the foreground in several places in the yard.  Heucheras grown for their flowers are commonly called coralbells, while those grown for their foliage are typically referred to as alumroots, or simply heucheras (which is what I call them).  Coralbells have tiny flowers on long, erect spikes, and although the mound is only 6-8 inches off the ground, the spikes of flowers can reach as high as 2 1/2 feet.  They come in shades of pinks, reds, corals,  rose-reds and white.  Their airy and delicate looking flowers can put on quite a show from late spring into summer, and even longer if deadheaded regularly.  Their rounded and scalloped leaves have 5-7 lobes and are quite pretty.  Heucheras for foliage may be listed under "alumroot."  I think their leaves resemble Maple leaves, and they come in all colors.  I have a lime green one (Key Lime Pie) and several that are purplish and rose-burgundy.  Popular ones  are Palace Purple and Ruby Ruffles.  Their sprays are long-lived and  good to use as fillers in arrangements.  They are extremely hardy, but watch to see if they have heaved out of the soil in winter, and if so, reset them.  They need to be divided regularly for best performance--in spring, every 4-5 years is best.  What I like about them is that they are not invasive; they stay in their mound.  And, if they do become woody in the center, it's very easy to dig the clump and divide it, taking out the woodiest part of the plant.  They are equally as easy to take starts of--and can be replanted almost any time of the year with no problem.  They just need to be kept evenly moist, although they are fairly drought tolerant.   Heucheras have been heavily hybridized in recent years, and cultivars may be listed under different species, some without any species name at all.  But, just look for cultivar names you recognize or that have  been recommended to you for the best ones for your garden.  I recommend Splendens, White Cloud, Palace Purple, Raspberry Ice, Ruby Ruffles, Peach Melba (wonderful, with a peach front and raspberry back-I gave mine away but am replacing it this fall), Key Lime Pie (BRIGHT Lime Green), Citronelle (Bright Yellow-Green), Velvet Knight and Hercules (A variagated leaf).   They are lovely, long-lived, hardy, non-invasive, easy to grow and take care of, do well in our area, have a wide range of colorful leaves to choose from, and most nurseries in our area have a wide variety  to choose from.  (I have also ordered from catalogs, but if I can get a nice-sized cultivar I want from a local nursery, that is what I prefer to do).  You just can't go wrong with HEUCHERA!  

PEST CONTROL SOLUTIONS

It seems no matter how hard we try, we are always fighting  PESTS IN THE GARDEN.  There are more than 50,000 different insects in Utah, but the majority of those don't bother the plants, they eat other insects.  But the 100 or so that do damage to our plants make it pretty frustrating, to say the least!  But, we can diminish the problems with these pests if we follow some guidelines in  the garden:  (1)  Water the SOIL, not the PLANTS   (2)  Don't over water  (3)  If any plant is diseased, remove it immediately  (4)  Keep the garden area cleaned up, free from old leaves or dead flowers  (5)  Plants need good circulation--don't over-crowd  (6)  Experts also tell us to rotate flowers regularly  (7)  Fertilize if needed, and  (8)  Choose plants that are disease or pest resistant .   When you first see signs of a problem it's important to find out what it really is.  There's no sense applying pest control methods if it's wrong.  Over the years I have learned to identify certain problems that, if taken care of promptly, have been lessened to a large degree, and in some cases, alleviated completely.    Two of these problems have been slugs and snails, and aphids.  I regularly went out at night "hunting down" slugs and snails.  I would go out about 9 or 10:00, armed with a flashlight and ziplock baggie.  (I now have a head lamp that my kids gave me for Christmas--so my hands are free.  I really like using it).  I found many, and I just put them in the baggie and then threw it in the trash when done collecting.  After doing this regularly for a few years, I have minimal slugs and snails.  We were told at Temple Square to never smash them, because their eggs can still hatch with as many as 100 new snails.  I am still on the lookout for them, and use a slug and snail bait.  I sprinkle the pellets sparingly along the curbing and the fence retaining cement wall.  This has done a great job!  Several companies make it.  I prefer the pellets.  Some are water resistant, and work for up tp 4 weeks.  Other pests that need control are aphids--they get on the new growth  of plants, especially the roses.  I use a rose systemic on them, and use it every month or two, depending on the year and the weather we've had.  I've seen some aphids this week, and so I could even use a stream of water to wash them off the plants.  They rarely seem to crawl back up the plant.  Another thing I've seen this week is the damage from spider mites.  I haven't had this problem before, but first thing tomorrow I need to spray some insecticidal soap or pyrethrin on a few of the tall oriental and Asiatic lilies.  I recognized the problem from the webbing on the plants and leaves.  They suck the buds and leaves of plants, leaving them dry, and the buds usually fall off without blooming, or else the bloom is small and usually falls off.  They are so small, but if you take a piece of paper and shake the plant a little, you can see the tiny mites as they fall onto the paper.  Many mites and insects go through multiple generations in just one season.  So, it really pays to control the pests in the very earliest stages.  A good stream of water is sometimes one of the quickest and easiest ways to curb them.  Since I use soaker hoses, this is one problem that can actually be helped with overhead water use.  Most insecticides only last 1-4 weeks so you have to re-apply,  and sometimes their use is the only  way to control pests.  I use pesticides only as a last resort, though.  One year I sent for 1,000 "stay-home" ladybugs, and several preying matis eggsacs.  They were just marginally effective, though.  The lady bugs did not "stay home", but I really enjoyed the preying matis.  I think the best way to control pests, though, are the first 8  ideas mentioned here.  Whatever your problem, you can go to the internet and look them up and find out good information in helping you control your particular problem.  Remember, consistency and staying on top of things before the problem gets out of control will pay off in the long run.   Happy Gardening!

HYBRID TEA ROSES

The first plants we planted in the yard several years ago were Hybrid Tea Roses.  They have been a source of enjoyment for many years now.  They are reliable, hardy, and easier to take care of than I had planned on.  I love many things about them:  their fragrance, their reblooming nature, (blooming in three to four flushes during the season), and their showy, multiple blooms.  Hybrid teas have narrow buds, one per stem. All mine are double.  I have about 50 roses, in 4 areas in the yard, but I do have 3-4 repeats of ones that I especially love. Hybrids are about 3-5'. I prune mine severely each spring to about 18 inches, and so by the end of the season, they are about 4-5 feet tall.  All roses benefit from basic pruning--this keeps them healthy and vigorous.  When you prune them,always cut just above an outward-facing bud.  Any time during the season there is dead wood, or damaged canes, remove them.  To prevent borers. you can seal your cuts with clear fingernail polish, or white glue.  There is much deadheading to do with roses, but it's worth it.  To deadhead, cut about 1/4" above the second 5-leaflet leaf, preferably above an outward facing leaf.They need full sun, or at least 6 hours a day, to bloom well.  If you don't have a spot that has the sun all day, choose one that has good morning sun, and afternoon shade.  Make sure they have good air circulation.  This helps keep down foliar diseases.  They tend to lose their leaves at the bottom, but I've heard that even if they don't, you should remove the leaves at the very bottom of the plant.  I fertilize mine in early spring before they leaf out with a good ROSE SYSTEMIC.  This also protects them from pests like aphids.  I apply every month, or I've heard every other month.  I prefer the granules--mixing it in with the soil around the base of the rose, then watering it in good.  If you don't have a soaker hose drip system, water your roses early in the day so leaves have time to dry out completely by nightfall.  Keep watering until fall, until they enter dormancy.  I mulch mine with shredded bark--this helps to keep them weed free, and keeps the moisture in.  I love working with roses in arrangements.  I remove the thorns before arranging, and I cut them at an angle.  I also use a commercial florists preserver for arrangements.  Roses would certainly be at the top of my list with my other favorite plants for the garden!    

BY REQUEST: CHICKEN WONTON SALAD

Here's the recipe for the oft requested CHICKEN WONTON SALAD.  It's very easy, and is always the hit of the party.  Our family loves this, and it seems as though anyone who tastes it loves it, too.  It is one of my most requested recipes:

1 lg. head iceberg lettuce, broken

1 bunch green onion, chopped

1/2 Cup sesame seeds

4 oz. SLIVERED almonds

6 chicken breasts, cooked and cubed

Mix together and just before serving, toss with dressing.  Crush fried wontons a little and toss again .  Serve immediately.  Hope you love it!

DRESSING:

1/2 Cup oil
1/2 Cup rice vinegar

1/2 Cup sugar

2 tsp salt

2 tsp MSG (I have omited this before)

1/2 tsp black pepper

Mix together well.  Refrigerate overnight before pouring on salad and tossing.

A FEW OF THE SEASON'S FAVORITES

As the season has progressed, I have had the question from many, "What plant is your favorite?"  I tell them that my favorites are always the ones that are blooming at the time.  I really don't have a favorite--I like so many.  But pictured here are a few of my favorites that I haven't really featured yet: Pulsatilla, Dimity Japanese Iris, Pink Bleeding Heart, Rose Foxglove, Peach Verbascum, Hellebore, various Primrose, Bethlehem Sage,  Double Pink Hollyhock, White Allium, Purple Shooting Star, White Bleeding Heart, Yellow Crown Imperial, Blue Lisianthus.  I can't wait for the lilies of all kinds (Daylily, Oriental and Asiatic), to bloom.  I had my first bloom today in the upper bed.  The others look to be ready to bloom very soon, as well as the various daylilies I have in the yard.  The roses are blooming, as well.  It's a nice time of year!

SEASON ENDS FOR COOL WEATHER ANNUALS

The season for cool weather annuals is fast coming to an end.  These include one of my favorite plants that I use as a filler in the flower beds--PANSIES.  These hardy, or half-hardy annuals thrive in cool conditions--so they have done remarkably well this year.  I plant my pansies in the fall.  They over-winter especially well, and then their early spring blooming is more abundant.  When they begin to grow spindly, you can cut them back and they will look better for a longer period. I usually pull mine in the early summer and plant petunias in their place.  If they're in the shade, however, they can actually last through the entire summer.  (I have actually had the pansies last through two growing seasons when I took great pains to keep them).  They do well when we have cooler summers. They come in a wide variety of colors and bi-colors for you to choose from, and they are easy to grow.  They provide a low, colorful edge for your landscape.  They do well in shade, but also like full sun and like a soil rich with organic  matter.  I have found the best deal for flats of Pansies is JOE'S GREENHOUSE in Layton.  He grows his own, and their prices beat everyone in the area.  He sells mainly in the fall, and you'll like his selection.  I started using pansies in my garden after working at Temple Square.  I saw  just how much they added to the design of their beds.  So I started to use them and I'm so glad I did.  They are relatively inexpensive and have added that extra touch of color that I've needed with the perennial beds. 

SUPER DEAL--EXPIRES FRI, JUNE 25th, AT MIDNIGHT!!  One more great deal I wanted to tell you about, and it's a great one, is that several online plant companies are offering LILIES for a blow-out, end-of-the-season sale.  You can get 50 lilies for just $19.99, shipped immediately.  (Don't get these  lilies mixed up with daylilies--they are different.  Daylilies are plants with fountain-like foliage, lilies are bulbs that you plant that are single, erect pIants).  I have about 60 or so lilies in the gardens.  What I love about lilies is that they don't take up much room and they bloom just when you need color from your perennials in the summer through the late summer.  I will be posting on lilies when they start to bloom, but I highly recommend this offer.  Go in with some friends if you can't use 50--but you'll be surprised at how many you can plant without taking up much room.  Oriental, LA's and OT's smell wonderful! Asiatic usually don't have a fragrance.  Asiatics multiply, Orientals usually don't.  I have both--& I love them! Just go to any of these sites to order your lily grab bag before Friday at Midnight:

offers@brecks.com, offers@henryfields.com, or offers@springhillnursery.com.

FLOWERS, FLOWERS, FLOWERS!

Springtime flowers make the most beautiful bouquets--colorful, fragrant, and diverse because of the many blooms that are available this time of year.  I enjoy arranging, and hope you enjoy these 3 arrangements I did recently.

WATERING CARE THROUGH THE SEASON

I think the best and most efficient way to water is to use SOAKER HOSES in your flower beds.  You decrease the chance of diseases and use water much more efficiently.  Most people over-water their plants, but plants do better with deep, infrequent watering.   A general rule is to "Water the soil, not the plant."   In fact, too much water actually deprives the plant of oxygen, and it will die.  I have 11 soaker hoses in the beds to date, some have been in as long as 7 years.  To prepare the soaker hoses,  thread them in a  snake-like fashion through the beds, about 12-18" apart--their flow-out is about that wide.   I bury mine--anywhere from just under the soil, to a couple of inches,  to as many as 4 inches.  I use garden staples to keep the hoses in place, then  I cover the hose, although you don't need to, but I do. The hoses can be left in year-round.  (That's what I do).  I barely turn on the water and let it drip  for overnight or longer,up to 24 hours, depending on the bed and how dry it is.   Annuals, biennials and perennials as a rule need about 1 inch of water per week--either by rainfall or watering at our hands.  In reading about plants the one thing that is repeated over and over is that plants like evenly moist, but not wet, soil.  Using a soaker hose helps with this immensely.  I have two different types of soakers:  round, rubber (from recycled tires) and a flat, nylon one.  You can get different lengths.  I usually like to use the longer ones, 75 to 150 feet.  I prefer the flat nylon the best.  It's very durable, and hard to puncture, which I have before with the rubber ones.   (However, they are very easy to splice with an inexpensive hose mender that all the garden stores carry).  I've had mine in for several years now and haven't had to replace any of them yet, although if I needed to, they have a lifetime guarantee.  They are very easy to use.  Just turn on the water and, check the flow--you want a slow, steady gentle stream--and then basically forget about it overnight, anywhere from 8 to 24 hours.  (Note:  Don't turn on the water too strong, or you will 'blow-out' the hose--just an 1/8th of a turn is usually sufficient.  Check your flow to make sure, though).  After the initial work of putting the soaker hoses in, they are virtually trouble-free and effective.  Because I have plants falrly close together, the soaker hoses ensures that the leaves on my plants don't get wet, greatly decreasing the change of fungal or nonpathagenic diseases.  Using this method of watering has helped the beds be healthier and stronger, not-to-mention using water wisely.  The soaker hoses have been one of the most valuable things I've implemented in the gardens, and I hope you try this suggestion if you don't already have them--you'll be glad you did!

DAYLILY LOVERS, HEADS UP!

For those of you who are in need of more plants in your garden at a super price--3 mail order companies are offering a great deal on daylilies--a grab bag of 25 daylilies for $25!  If you can't use 25, get together with a couple of friends to share the cost.  They will be shipped immediately for this year's planting--and will most likely bloom for next year, although I had some a couple of years ago that produced their first year with a small stem of blooms. The three companies are Brecks, Gurney's, and  Spring Hill.  (They must be affiliate companies, because their information and keycode is exactly  the same on all 3  sites).  Just go to any of their Web sites to order online:       (offers@brecks.com, offers@gurneys.com or offers@springhillnursery.com).  Use the Keycode 0423791 and it's item #82652.  This offer ends at midnight on June 25th.   All companies have a guarantee on their products and I have been very happy dealing with all.  These are their regular season plants, just a surplus that they need to sell, passing on great savings to you.  I love Daylilies, because of their beautiful fountain style foliage, and the many, many blooms that you get from each plant, although they only last a day.  But because they have so many buds, they bloom for a long time.  I have 30 in the yard presently.  I will be posting about them when they start to bloom, which should be fairly soon.  Several have scapes that are about 10 inches tall.  Happy planting!

MY FAVORITE CARAMEL CORN

We're going to a family reunion today and family members bring items to auction off to raise money for the family fund.  My family always requests my homemade caramel corn.  It's a soft, melt-in-your-mouth treat that is always a hit with them.  I don't know where I got the recipe--I've had it for years.  At any rate, here's the recipe for my favorite Caramel Corn:

1 Cup butter (2 cubes)

1 Cup light Karo syrup

2 Cups Brown Sugar, packed
1 Can Eagle Brand Condensed Milk
pinch of Salt
1 C unpopped popcorn

Combine all ingredients except popcorn and cook over medium high heat, stirring constantly (this burns easily, so make sure you stir constantly) until it reaches a soft ball stage (don't over-cook.   For a soft ball stage, Pour a half teaspoon caramel into a 1 cup measure with ice water and mold into a ball.  When it holds it shape, but is still very soft, it's done).  Pour over popped corn.  Cool on 2 large parchment-lined cookie sheets.  Pull apart and store in air-tight bags.  Makes about 6 quarts.

NOTE:  I use a microwave PRESTO POPCORN POPPER, and make 3 batches of 1/3 C each (so 1 Cup popcorn--I like the white popcorn best), with no oil.  I divide the popcorn after I have removed any "old maids" (unpopped kernels) into 2 large tupperware bowls.  I pour half the caramel into each of the bowls and fold it into the popped corn.  Keep folding until all is well-coated.  Pour out onto lined sheets.  Cool.  Pull apart and store into bags.  Keeps for about a week, if it lasts that long!

PERENNIALS IN THE GARDEN

PERENNIALS make up most all of my garden beds.  The only annuals I plant are a few petunias and the plants that make up the pots on the patio and the hanging baskets.  I prefer perennials, plants that over-winter and re-emerge in the spring, because I don't have to buy new ones each year.  The biennials are plants that I usually take a start from my own, and so I don't need to keep re-purchasing them.  My favorite perennials are forget-me-nots, monarda, obedient plant, baby's breath, columbine, lupine, flax, echinacea, Jacob's ladder, delphinium and the many heuchera to choose from.  When a perennial starts up again in the spring, it marks the beginning of the gardening season.  They are the first blooms of spring, and continue on through the late fall, until frost.  Evergreen perennials add green  or sometimes burgundy or purple to the winter landscapes, as well.  There are perennials for every part of the garden--sun or shade, rich soil or a poor one.  There are many, many to choose from.  When you are making your choices, remember to match the plant to the site:  How much sun it will get, the kind of soil it will need, the amount of water it needs, how big the plant will get, and it's shape and color.  Over the years I have weeded out those plants that just didn't do as well, were too time-consuming, or ones that I just didn't absolutely love.  You'll probably need to do some experimenting--a plant may not like one area of your yard, but love another.  Move them around if you really want the plant, but it didn't do as well as you wanted.  Find out what kind of soil you have and amend it if necessary.  Most plants say that organic matter is good for their planting.  I amend my soil each spring and fall with top soil plus, a soil that has been amended with organic matter.   You can buy it by the bag, or the nursery will usually deliver it to your home for a minimal fee.  Leaf compost is a good way to amend your soil, as well.  Work it in your soil well before planting.  Spring is probably my favorite time of the year.  When plants begin to break their dormancy and emerge is so neat!  From then on, keeping things dead-headed, cut back, staked, mulched, weeded, watered and pest and fungal controlled are busy times.  If you have limited time, make sure you plant things that don't require a lot of attention; there are many to choose from.  Late fall is a good time to prepare your soil for your spring gardening.   The better you leave your garden in the fall, the easier and better it will be in the spring.  Bring an arrangement in every week to further enjoy your blooms.   Enjoy these next months in your gardens.  I know I will!

THE PEONY - UNEQUALED FOR BEAUTY AND LONGEVITY

PEONIES are lavish old-fashioned blooms that look delicate, but are actually very hardy.  They appear annually, even given minimum care.  In fact, I've seen peonies in abandoned gardens, still blooming reliably.  So with a good site and regular attention, you can imagine how spectacular they can be in the late spring, early summer beds.  As I've mentioned before, there are two types of peonies--herbaceous and tree peonies.  Herbaceous peonies die to the ground each year, and are the most popular and well-known.  They are from 1 1/2' - 3' tall, and are 5-8" across in size.  They bloom from late May to early June.  Tree peonies are woody, shrub-like trees that grow anywhere from 3-6'.  Their blooms can be from 6-10 inches or more across, in a texture that reminds me of crepe paper and silk.  They bloom a little earlier than herbaceous peonies.  I think that peonies make some of the most stunning additions to flower arrangements.  They keep for a long time, their foliage is dark and glossy, and their fragrance is fresh and aromatic.  Their are hundreds of cultivars to choose from, ranging in color, size, bloom time, and form.   I usually order mine from Reath's or Cricket Hill Gardens.  You can find them online.  One thing about peonies is that they are very long-lived.  Be sure you plant them in a place that can be permanent because they can live for a hundred years.  They are deep-rooted and can thrive for years without needing to be divided.  Plant in full sun, but they will also bloom, although less abundantly, in light shade for part of the day.  Plant in a spot protected from strong winds because their heavy blooms can be damaged.  Don't plant them in competition with other tree roots or shrubs.  And, don't plant the eyes too deep or they won't flower, not more than 2" below the soil surface.  I usually remove the side buds so the blooms will be bigger.  But, if you want a longer bloom season, keep them all on.  They probably will need to be staked.  Do this early in the season so the stems will grow up through the supports.  After they have flowered, cut off the spent blooms to keep the plants from expending energy on seed production.  In fall, cut their stems to the ground.  Combine them with other late-spring blooming flowers such as bleeding heart, Siberian iris, salvias, candytuft, delphinium or lupine.  I think that every flower garden needs at least a couple of these unparalleled beauties.  They are in my top 5 for favorites!

DID I SAY I DIDN'T LIKE HIGH WINDS?!

I've been out in the yard today taking pictures because there may be nothing left after the high wind warning we received.   They should start shortly and last through today and tonight.  There are reports that they will be 40 MPH, with gusts as high as 70 MPH.  So, I've taken lots of shots.  The iris and poppies and maybe some of the big peonies will probably be blown over, or even uprooted, but most certainly ruined to some degree.  Good weather should follow, with the weekend being good (alas, after all the damage has been done).  However, I will enjoy the beautiful images--thank goodness for digital photography!   

A VISIT TO DAWN'S IRIS GARDEN--A heavenly experience!

Yesterday I had the pleasure of visiting my friend, Dawn, a fellow iris lover, and her gorgeous iris garden--about 800 plants with 250 different cultivars.  It's close to the end of iris season, and because of heavy winds and rain in the few previous days, many of the tall beauties were laying on the ground.  But it was spectacular, still, to say the least!   She has iris of every color--from the lacy whites, to the majestic darkest of blacks and every color in between!  I enjoyed my stay, her gracious hospitality, and the pure and fascinating  beauty of each and every iris.  I wish I could post them all, but since I can't, here are a few collages of some of her blooms in a rainbow of colors.  Someone once said, "A Thing of Beauty is  a Joy Forever."  That's what I experienced yesterday..memories that will last a lifetime.   Thank you, Dawn and Neal.   (Note:  Make sure you click on the photo to bring it up in a larger format)

HOSTA - LUSH MOUNDS OF BEAUTIFUL FOLIAGE FOR THE SHADE

HOSTA are long-lived, easy-to-grow perennials for the shade garden.  They are definitely one of the top plants for shade, if not the top., and one of my all-time favorite perennials!  They originated in China, Japan, and Korea, and have been grown in America for about 150 years.  There are currently more than 6,000 cultivars, with about 70 or more species. They adapt to many kinds of soils and sites, and they are unequaled in terms of landscape uses.  They are grown mainly for their  beautiful, thick leaves, which can be as small as 1 or 2" long, to the big mammoth ones, whose leaves can reach 2 feet.  Their colors can be dark green to light green, chartreuse, blue, blue-green, and a myriad of every color of variegated greens, whites and golds, with blotches, margins and patterns.  The shape and texture of their leaves are varied as well; coarse, corrugated, glossy, ribbed, or smooth, and can be heart-shaped, round, or lance-shaped.  They flower in summer with tall, trumpet-shaped, erect spikes of white, pale lavender, or deep purple flowers.  What I like about the blooms is that they are fragrant.  They  like evenly moist soil, and some will tolerate some sun, although others prefer only shade, as their leaves will "burn" if in the sun.  They can be expensive to buy, so make sure you get good-sized, quality plants because you'll have better luck with them making it through the first winter months, and they will fill in much faster, of course.  I like to find unusual ones--I especially like the variegated with lots of pattern on them--different shades of greens, whites and golds.  Just make sure you consider your garden size, and take into account their growth--which can take up to 5 years or more to reach their maximum size for the larger ones.  When you buy a hosta, it will tell you the cultivar and the size it is--small, medium, large, or extra large.  Intersperse your hosta--large-leaved with small leaved, chartreuse greens with dark greens, etc.  They can be moved around in your garden most any time, but I think early spring, before their fingers (leaves) emerge and unfurl, is the best time to move or divide.  Just use a pitch fork to dig the clump of roots out, and you can use a sharp knife or shovel to divide the plant, like slicing a pie up, into 4 or 6 parts.  Replant the "pie slices"  and they will do very well.  I WILL BE DIVIDING MINE NEXT SPRING, SO IF YOU WOULD LIKE SOME, PLEASE CONTACT ME.  Make sure you mark where your plants are because they are late to emerge in the spring, and you don't want to  accidentally dig into one.    They need minimal care to look their best.  Slugs and snails like them, so I just sprinkle a little slug bait at their base, or I sprinkle a little down on each side of my cement curbing and cement fence strip, so any coming into that bed will be stopped at the cement.   I cut my leaves to the ground in late fall, making spring clean up much easier.  I've been buying my hostas at ROCKY MOUNTAIN HOSTA for the past several years.  Glen Draper and his family have run the business until just recently, when it changed ownership to two sisters, Becky Ellis Frost and Brenda Ellis McGowan.  I visited with Becky the other day and bought three new hosta.  She was very accommodating, and has lots and lots of quality plants.  She told me that she and her sister are also planning to have their potted hostas in a shop on Historic 25th Street for sale through the year.  I highly recommend their hostas--excellent quality, having made it through the winters here in their pots, and they have a wide assortment of interesting and fun plants--not just your ordinary run-of-the-mill ones that the local nurseries might have. You can reach them by going to their facebook page, or you can email them. Go to 

RockyMountainHosta@gmail.com  or           

facebook.com/RockyMountainHostaCompany.

WHY DO I LOVE IRIS SO MUCH?

TALL BEARDED IRIS are truly one of my very favorite blooms in the beds.  Their color range rivals nearly all plants--in every imaginable hue and tone, except maybe a true red.  It's hard to put into words or even with a picture their true beauty.  I have been growing iris for about 12 years now, but my parents and Grandma Holland had a garden with hundreds of the tall beauties, and so I've been around them my whole life.  They are in their prime bloom season right now, and will soon be done, ending a year of beauty until next spring.  The order companies are presently taking orders for iris, and they will be shipped whenever you want them.  July and August are the best times to plant new rhizomes in our area.  When planting, choose a spot that gets full sun, is not too wet (this rots the rhizomes), and in a place where the soil drains well.  They are usually planted about 12-24 inches apart.  The closer, the sooner you'll have to divide them, but the effect will be immediate if you plant closer.  I  usually plant mine about 12 inches apart, knowing that I will divide them every 2-3 years, which is what works best for me.  If your plants become over-crowded, the blooms will suffer, and disease problems will be intensified.  New plants need water to develop their roots, but  remember that deep, infrequent watering is much better than frequent, shallow waterings.  After they are established, you really don't need to water them  much, because they do well in dry, warm regions.  Over-watering can be fatal.  I always plants mine with a handful of super triple phosphate.  Don't use anything with high nitrogen levels, because this will also cause root rot.  Have the rhizomes tops exposed--they like to bask in the sun. Another mistake is planting them too deeply.  You can increase bloom time by planting cultivars that bloom early, mid and late in the season.  I keep small markers with their name on to identify varieties.  With 151, this has come in handy.  I also have planted mine in groups that look good together throughout the yard.  My parents had theirs in rows, and irrigated them in a big garden.  I don't have that luxury, so mine are interspersed in the yard , but I like the look.  I paid $10 to register and belong to the AMERICAN IRIS SOCIETY.  You can go online to do this. I also have a master list of iris--probably 10,000 or more of the cultivars.  Although it doesn't have pictures, it has come in very handy to look up iris with all their information.   My love of iris has brought new and special friends come into my life, and I look forward to many more iris friends in the future! 

CLEMATIS--QUEEN OF THE VINES

CLEMATIS are one of the most coveted perennials of gardeners and landscapers because of their vast array of bloom sizes, colors, and bloom times.  Their showy blooms can be from 4-8" across.  They grow best in locations that get plenty of sunlight--at least 5-6 hours a day.  Their roots, which are long and run deep, like to be shaded, so plan on growing something at their base or keeping 2-3" of bark around the base to keep the roots cool and moist, but not soggy.  Remember:  "Head in the SUN, feet in the SHADE."  Be sure not to let them dry out, soaking once a week in dry weather.   They need something to climb on or twine around--a trellis, fence, hedge or even a small tree.  I have a few that are planted at the base of my climbing roses.  Prune your clematis hard to 10-12" the first spring after planting.  This is very important to get your plant off to low branching and heavier flowering over the whole clematis vine.  They like to be composted every spring to stay strong and healthy.  When planting hybrids, plant them 2-3" deeper than it was in the pot.  This encourages strong shoots from below the soil and protects it from clematis wilt, a fungal disease that can kill top growth (which does happen frequently), and helps to protect the roots from cold during our winter months. If this happens, they will normally resprout, but it may take a year or two for them to reappear. Yearly applications of slow release fertilizers in the spring are another way to keep them healthy.  I use super triple phosphate very early in the spring.  Don't use liquid fertilizers unless you use them later in the year, in June or July.  Well-fed, well-watered plants will produce the largest flowers.  Clematis are divided into THREE FLOWERING GROUPS.  It is very important for you to understand how each cultivar blooms in order to properly prune them.  When you do this properly, that pruning will promote flowering.  However, if you don't prune properly, the flowers will be delayed or they might not even flower until the next growing season.  For example, SOME VARIETIES FLOWER ONLY ON THE PREVIOUS YEAR'S GROWTH.  These cultivars should only be pruned to remove dead or weak stems after they have finished flowering.  GROUP I  flowers on previous year's growth.  Leave unpruned.  If you need to, do only after they have bloomed, and remove only the weak or dead stems.    GROUP II   produce EARLY SEASON blooms on previous year's growth and blooms LATE SEASON on new growth.  Prune only to shape in early spring (February or March).  Prune just above the first pair of new swollen leaf buds, about 12 inches from each shoot.    GROUP III flower on new season's growth.  They are usually the most vigorous of the cultivars.  Prune all of the main stems back to about 3 feet above the ground in February or March, leaving at least 1 pair of strong looking buds on each stem.  When you buy your clematis, it will be marked which group it is in.  If you don't know, you can identify  your cultivar and any site should tell you which group it is in.  I love my clematis, having blooms, early, mid and late, some blooming in spring and again in late summer.   Clematis add so much to the gardens, and are one of my favorites!  

Blue Light, Jackmanni, Sugar Candy, Arctic Queen, Franziska Maria, Nellie Moser, Crystal Fountain, Wisely, Konigskind, and Josephine

". . .HOW DOES YOUR GARDEN GROW?"

LUPINES are erect spikes of densely packed, pealike flowers that come in about all shades.  They bloom in late spring to early summer on 3 foot tall plants, the most popular are the Russell Hybrids.  I love their 'umbrella-like' soft, dark green leaves.  They are hardy in zones 3-8, and they thrive in cool, moist areas.  I have them growing in full sun to shade.  They like evenly moist, well-drained soil.  In my gardens I use them as biennials--they tend to get 'woody' in the center when they are more than a couple years old.   But they reseed and so it's very easy to have those plants take the place of the old plant, and you will always have blooms from year to year.  (Some say that they are stronger plants, with less chance of disease or pests when you replace them every 2-3 years).  One problem they do have is that they do tend to get powdery mildew, that seems to set in after they bloom.  You can try to treat it with a product targeted for powdery mildew (a sulfer-based fungicide, sprayed every 7-10 days),  but I just cut them down, and new stems start to grow without the problem.  Keeping the soil evenly moist, avoiding overhead watering, and spacing plants properly all help with controlling powery mildew.  One of the things that I really love about lupines is no matter how windy it is, they continue to stand erect.  They don't need to be staked, and other than powdery mildew, seem to be pretty trouble-free.  My love of lupines was inspired by my friend, Marilyn Harris, a couple years ago.  Her garden is simply beautiful, with hundreds, I'm sure, of lupines in late spring, in beautfiul color combinations.  These pictures are in her yard.  She shared some of her seed a few years ago.  All I did was scratch the surface of the soil and  sprinkled the seed in areas I wanted plants in my beds, with the fresh seed. They need light to germinate, so just a good seed-to-soil contact is needed. The rest is history--the fresh seed was very potent-- and I had little starts that very fall.  That spring I had many myself, and was able to harvest the seed and sprinkle more.  Well, this year I have had hundreds of seedlings--being able to share with friends and making room for more in my beds.  (I still have many seedlings left, so if you want some, let me know)!  Lupines will be a great addition to your garden--they are definitely one of my favorites!

FLOWERS, FLOWERS, FLOWERS!

As the weather warms, the flowers are really beginning to bloom!    Perennials are growing each day--you can almost see them grow!  The TALL BEARDED IRIS, LUPINE, ORIENTAL POPPIES, COLUMBINE, some herbaceous PEONIES, and DUTCH IRIS are all in bloom right now--I've almost got all the beds cleaned up from the early spring blooms; the hyacinths, tulips and daffodils, and the leaves from all the alliums in the yard.  I transplanted my last (I hope) couple of additions or changes.  I try not to plant any later than June 15 (except gladiola corms) so each plant  has a strong root system before the hot summer days.  I also look for plants that are long-lived, reliable, and look their best with minimal care.  As you plan your beds, don't be afraid to experiment.  If it doesn't work, you can move plants around; the plant may love a different place in your yard and thrive, where it wasn't before.   This process will make you a better gardener. Walk through your garden often to observe your plants and look for potential problems.  See if the soil is dry, look under leaves and on stem tips for pests.  Stake or ring plants early; it's difficult to do this when the plants are too big. 

These shots were taken yesterday in the yard.  The iris will be in full bloom in a couple of days, with about 3/4 of them out right now.  The poppies are just starting, as well the lupine, and a couple of the herbaceous peonies as well as the columbine, allium, and the Dutch iris.  This is definitely one of my favorite seasons! Happy Gardening!

DUTCH IRIS - HYBRIDS THAT LIKE DRY, WARM SUMMERS

Another one of my favorite blooms right now (late spring to early summer) are the light, airy DUTCH IRIS.  They are usually planted in the fall with the tulip and daffodil bulbs.  Although they are perennials, they don't bloom reliably  if they get too wet, so plant them in an area where they will be dry in their dormant period in the summer. (Or another option is to lift the bulbs after their foliage ripens and store them in paper bags in a warm, dry, dark place over summer).  After they flower, feed them with a fertilizer like bonemeal or triple super phosphate (my favorite to use).  These 18-22" plants  are excellent, long-lived cut flowers, but just remember that by cutting them you are removing most of their foliage and so they probably won't return the following year.  Because of this, I usually plan on planting new bulbs every year or two in a sunny spot.  They are relatively inexpensive (about $5.00 for 25 bulbs) so it's easy to do this.  Plant 6" deep and 6" apart.  I've also heard that it is wise to dig them up and plant them in a new place every 2 years, and  that,  though hardy, they may require protection against severe winter conditions (like a mulch or evergreen boughs).  They come in shades of yellows, blues, lavenders, and whites, as shown in the 4 varieties I have in the beds.   Their standards are the inner petals that stand upright, and the falls are the outer petals that open downwards, with their characterisitc contrasting 'blotch'.  This year I'm going to order some White Wedgewood--white standards and white falls, with a yellow blotch.  Most mail-order bulbs companies willl have Dutch Iris.

CHECK OUT MY NEW PLAY LIST!    I've added new songs--Some of my FAVORITES!  LET ME KNOW HOW YOU LIKE THEM! Just click on the first one and they'll run through the list.  I hope you like them!   ENJOY!!