FAMILY--"SOWING THE SEEDS OF LOVE"

Last night I started reflecting on an old Carpenter's song.  I love the words: 

"Sometimes, not often enough

 We reflect upon the good things

 And those thoughts always center around those we love

And I think about those people

Who mean so much to me

And for so many years have made me

So very happy

And I count the times

I have forgotten to say, thank you

And just how much I love them"

Felice Mancini 

I introduced my family the day I started my blog.  So, I'll just say that this is a collage of the 15 of us:  My oldest daughter, Merrin, her husband, Jason, and their 4 children--Logan, Eliza, Lucas and Anderson;  Nate and his wife Nathalie and their daughter, Paige;  Emily and her husband, Trevor;  Libby, Cole, my husband, Terry, and  me. My desire for them is best said by T. Alan Armstong:  "This is my wish for you. Comfort on difficult days, smiles when sadness intrudes, rainbows to follow the clouds, laughter to kiss your lips, sunsets to warm your heart, hugs when spirits sag, beauty for your eyes to see, friendships to brighten your being, faith so that you can believe, confidence for when you doubt, courage to know yourself, patience to accept the truth, and love to complete your life. 

VIOLETS/PURPLES IN THE GARDEN FOR DRAMA

PURPLE/VIOLET is a rich color, and it is often called the Queen of Color.  It's actually called this because in times long ago, purple was hard to find, and that made the color a popular one with royalty.  As a result, violet/purple signifies luxury, or royalty, especially in its darker shades.  Purple has several shades, from light lilac shades to deep royal purple shades.  It can be used as a soft accent color, or a dramatic, bold accent in your beds.  However, be sure to balance the "heaviness" of purple/violet shades with other colors; I like to put silver or gray shades with it--Dusty Miller, Lamb's Ear and Silver Mound look especially nice with it.  I also use different shades of purple a lot in the spring with tulips--from white Maureen tulips and light Lilac Perfection Peony Tulips to the almost black Queen of Night.  There are many tall bearded Iris to choose from--with almost any shade of purple you can think of.  You can go online to view iris catalogs from many companies for mail order, although the time to order is almost over.  (Schreiners Iris Gardens will take orders through August).  Clematis has some beautiful shades of violet, as well as dahlias, allium, lupines, Siberian iris, pansies, gladiolas, hyacinths and foxglove.  And, of course, Lilac trees are an all-time favorite in the spring!  Without purple/violet in the garden, things just wouldn't look the same!  Add a favorite purple this year--you'll be glad you did!  This collage shows some favorite purples in my beds.

NEIGHBORHOOD BEAUTY--IT"S CONTAGIOUS!

When you plan your beds, keep in mind that you will be adding beauty to your neighborhood.  People passing by will be able to view your garden, and you may never know the impact that your little piece of the world has on others.  I live in an area where many take pride in their yards, and I even plan my travel route based on certain gardens that I love to see through the season!  This collage shows one of my neighbor's corner flower beds.  It's so fun to see their garden spring through fall.  I love the color and use of space they have used, and it makes me happy just to walk or drive up to our cul-de-sac each day!   Thanks to all you gardeners who help make your neighborhoods prettier and who inspire us all--I appreciate you!

ROCK GARDENS - A PLACE FOR A VARIETY OF PLANTS

The sites of ROCK GARDENS vary widely.  My yard has a slope where big rocks were placed when the home was built.  Although my rock garden gets full sun, many are in shady areas. Some of the things I like best about having a rock garden is that we get to use a variety of plants that are mostly low-growing, that I wouldn't have in the yard; I also like it that it is viewable from all sides--since most of  my beds are against a foundation or fence, and viewing is limited from the front; and, it is a natural barrier between the patio and a big expanse of lawn that we have, so it provides color and diversity in the back yard.  There are some simple guidelines to planting a successful rock garden:

• Make sure the plants you select aren't too big for the area.  Small, low growing plants are usually best for a rock garden
• If you're placing your rocks, do so they look like they belong there, not just "placed" there 
• It is especially nice to see the plants falling, or cascading over the rocks
• Choose plants whose root systems are close to the surface, as the soil might not be very deep since the rocks may just be under the soil; you can also find areas where you can fill with topsoil to give your plants a better chance of flourishing
• Because of the rocks, you may need to water a rock garden more because the soil is shallow; watch it closely to make sure plants don't dry out

One of my favorite things about the rock garden is that it has 4 distinct looks from spring through fall--two in spring, one in summer, and then one in the fall. They all look completely different, and I like the change as the season progresses. It's easy to take care of, since I can get to the plants from any angle (a luxury I don't have with many of my beds!)  NOTE:   I might mention that it is one of the few beds that does get overhead watering--I took that into account as I selected the plants that would go in the garden.  My friend has a rock garden that is filled with water-wise plants, and it is actually a dry corner of her yard that doesn't get much water--and it's beautiful!   Most nurseries now feature "Water-Wise" plants and I think that's a great way to go!  Conserving water all we can is not only smart, it's extremely beneficial to us all.  Some of the plants I have in the rock garden are:  Veronica "steppable", Basket of Gold, Candytuft, Snow-in-the-Summer, Blue-Eyed Grass, Lithadora (a beautiful blue!), Blue companula, Twinspur (one of my favorite pinks!),  Dwarf Bellflower, Rockfoil (a favorite filler between rocks with a great crimson/pink bloom), low growing Lavenders, Forget-me-nots, Dwarf Jacob's Ladder, Ladies Mantle, Silver Mound, Sea Thrift, Edelweiss,  Lamb's Ears, Lamium, Creeping Phlox, Miniature Roses, Iris Reticulata, Hen and Chicks, and in spring, I have lots of bulbs; in fall, I have the small garden mums.   If I didn't have a rock garden, I would definitely want one.  It's a fun type of gardening that I really enjoy!

DELPHINIUMS-EYE CATCHING BEAUTIES!

I'll never forget the first time I saw a DELPHINIUM.  I was just a child, and the stately flower stalks were in the garden of my Grandma Holland.  It was so eye-catching and I was fascinated by it's vibrant color.  Little did I know that I would follow in her footsteps and "grow up" to be a gardener.  I remember few flowers of my childhood, but Delphinium is one I definitely do!   Delphiniums come in many hard-to-find blue shades, and if you've followed my blog for any time at all, you know I love blues in the garden!  Delphinium come in shades from pure white, to sky blue, to dark, royal blue, and every shade of blue in between.  They also come in shades of mauve, pink and lavender.  Although I love the big, beautiful Pacific Hybrids, my favorite are the Belladonna Group hybrids.  They are shorter--3-4 feet (compared to 4-6 feet), and bear loosely branched spikes of flowers.  I've found that they are easier to grow, are more tolerant of the heat in summer weather, and they are longer-lived plants.  The Pacific Giants are best grown as biennials, or even annuals.  The Belladonna are long-lived and easy to use in arrangements.  Delphiniums need rich soil, that is well drained.  They are heavy feeders, and so they require regular watering (and some recommend fertilizing during their bloom time), during the summer, but wet soil can be fatal, so make sure you don't have them in an area where there might be standing water.  They like full or partial sun, but mine do best in an area with afternoon shade.  They can blow over easily--so stake them when they are still small.  They have hollow, brittle stems, and so they break off rather easily if they aren't securely staked.  After their first bloom, if you cut them off just above the mound of foliage, new spikes will grow and you'll most likely get a second bloom in late summer or early fall.  When done blooming, allow the plant to die back naturally, since it will produce food for next year's flowers.  They can get powdery mildew, although the Belladonna (or bush delphinium) doesn't seem to be bothered much by it.  The Belladonna is blooming right now, and has been blooming since the first of June.  It  will continue through the fall--that's another reason why I like that variety so much.  I have it interspersed through all the beds.  The color draws the flowers in, and I feel it brings unity to the beds.   I order mine very inexpensively through mail-order catalogs.  I highly recommend the bush delphinium--truly one of my favorites in the garden.

FERNS - LUXURIANT FOLIAGE FOR SHADE

I love what ferns add to the garden--lacy texture, rich color, elegant form, and an airiness to the garden bed.   They are grown for their beautiful foliage.  They are easy and not demanding as plants, as long as they get proper moisture and  shade.  They are especially nice against a foundation or wall, so the fronds of the plants are against it.  They can even provide a nice ground cover.  They rise up from "fiddleheads" from a rhizome or rootstock, then unfurl to show off many tiny leaflets as their leaves.  They can be planted in drifts, back of borders, or naturalized for a woodland look.  They are natural companions to perennials that like shade as well, such as bleeding heart, hosta, bergenia, hellebores, lungworts and wild flowers, such as Virginia Bluebells. The Japanese Painted Fern has leaves marked with silver or gray, and maroon-purple midribs.   There are many varieties to choose from.  My favorites are the Ostrich Fern or Maiden Fern, along with the Japanese Painted Fern.  They can reach up to 2-4  feet in height, and do best when in shade and moist soil.    To contain their spread, dig up new plants every year by their roots and replant where you want them.   Once established, new ferns don't need much care, and I haven't seen any damage from pests.  At the end of the season you can either leave the fronds in place, or cut down.  I like to use the fronds in floral arrangements as a backdrop for the flowers.  (Just make sure you remove the foliage so none goes into the vase water).   I love working with them, and because they multiply readily, a few plants end up being several in just a year or two.  They are truly the plant to have in your shade garden!

LOVE-IN-A-MIST-5 BLOOM TIMES THIS SEASON!

To lengthen the bloom season for plants that flower for a relatively short time, consider SUCCESSION PLANTING.  Succession planting is when  you sow seeds at 2-week intervals where you want your plants to grow.  (You can even start exra early if you sow seeds indoors in early spring).  Love-In-A-Mist is a perfect plant that you can do this with.   You can sow the seeds from early spring into summer.  This means you'll have blooms all through late spring, summer, and even into fall.  Their seeds readily self-sow, so even if you don't sow seeds, you'll end up with a couple of bloom cycles.  If little seedling plants emerge where I don't want them, I can easily transplant the little plants to areas that I do want them.  They are hard to transplant after they are too big, so try to transplant when they are about 1-2" tall, because they don't like being moved.  They get their name because they are beautiful blue blooms surrounded by a "mist" of fine, fern-like greenery.   (I've seen pictures of pink love-in-a-mist, but have never seen that variety in the nurseries).   They will probably need to be thinned a little--they germinate readily.  They like full sun, although I have grown them in part shade.  I am on my third bloom, and new little seedlings are growing that are about 5 inches tall, as well as some that have just started their set of true leaves.  They should be blooming all through summer and into fall.  They do well in arrangements, and I especially love their pod after they've bloomed and dried naturally.   If you don't have any in your beds, I think you'll really enjoy them in your garden.  They're great if you want to add some color and a no-worry plant.

WHITE-A GOOD BUFFER BETWEEN STRONG-COLORED PLANTS

WHITE has always been one of my favorite colors in the garden.  I learned early, however, that white needs to be used in mass to to avoid a 'spotty' effect.  It is a good buffer color, but planting one plant here and one plant there to break up other colors just doesn't create a good effect.  You can plant several white plants and use them between bright colors, though, and it can create harmony in your bed.  Another thing I like about white blooms is that they show up well at night, they add a feeling of elegance and calm, and can make your area look larger than it is.  I have some wonderful white flowers:  goatsbeard, daisy, candytuft, peony, oriental poppy, phlox, dahlia, gladiola, baby's breath, Siberian iris, tall bearded iris, tulips, snowball tree, lilac, poppy, rose, hyacinth, obedient plant, white bleeding heart, mum, Jacob's ladder, heuchera, and hibiscus.  A visit to an "all-white" garden years ago still remains one of my favorite gardens I have viewed--it was simply elegant, and restful.  This collage shows some of my favorite white blooms in our flower beds.  Just remember that white can unite, if used wisely in your beds. 

TRUE BLUE HARD TO FIND? NOT AROUND HERE!

I've heard that a true blue in the garden is hard to come by.  Well, because I love blue in the garden so much, I've made it a point to search out and purchase any blue plant that I thought would work in the beds.  So, I have a very wide variety of blue flowering plants--from early spring, with hyacinths and grape hyacinths into late spring, with the many beautiful iris there are. In summer bush delphinium, and the fall with monkshood, and many blues in-between those seasons.  There are vibrant blues for the rock garden, to the regal blues of Japanese iris.  I think that blue is like yellow--it works well with most any color.  It has the ability to enhance the other flowers.  I like to use blue as a filler with my arrangements--especially bush delphinium, lavenders, love-in-a-mist, and blue salvia.  Blue can also be used to help blend colors that would normally clash, bringing unity to the bed. I think every garden needs some blue.  If you don't have any, take the time to search out one that would work well in your garden--I'm sure you'll think your garden comes "alive" with the added color.  I would be at a loss without blue around here!  I think one of my very combinations is blue and whites as well; it is so refreshing!  Pictured is a collage of some of my favorite blues in our beds.  If you have any questions, just let me know--I may have starts of some of them next spring!

SOME PLANTS REALLY DO LIKE HOT, DRY WEATHER!

When it's as hot outside as it is now, it's good to know that there are plants that actually love hot, dry weather.  You can have a beautiful garden, despite the hot weather outside if you have some of these plants that do well in those conditions:  

PERENNIALS:  Blanket Flower, Daylily, Yarrow, Rock Cress, Silver Mound, Butterfly Weed, Snowbank, Jupiter's Beard, Tickseed, Moonbeam Coreopsis, Sweet William, Maiden Pinks, Coneflower, Lavender, Gayfeather, Flax, Penstemon, Salvia, Black-Eyed Susan, Sedum Autumn Joy, Stonecrop, and Lamb's Ears.

ANNUALS:   Marigolds, Vinca, Sunflower, Lantana, Zinnia, Verbena, and Agapanthus.
This collage show some of my plants that like dry, hot conditions.  By the way, I have some litle seedlings of daylily if anyone is interested.  Enjoy your summer, and keep cool!

A LITTLE BIT OF ORANGE GOES A LONG WAY!

ORANGE can be a difficult color to use.  When you use it in your flower beds, you can actually make your beds seem smaller because of their brightness and intensity.  Try using smaller amounts of them, just enough to add what I've heard of as adding"Sparkle" to your beds.  When you use it, be sure to use a cool color behind it; this will help to 'soften' the look, and actually unifiy the area that it's in.  I've read that warm colors are harder to blend, and that it takes some practice and skill to artfully use them.  I think that orange looks good with shades of purple and blue. I don't have any true, bright, oranges in the beds.  Rather, I have the more muted tones of apricots, peaches and corals. I feel that they do energize the beds, though, and they blend very well with the other colors throughout the beds.  As with the pinks and yellows, I try to have a balanced blend of colors through all the seasons-spring through fall.  The most important thing to remember is that warm colors are powerful, so be sure you use them with paler colors and plenty of greenery.  Pictured are two collages of some of my favorite plants of these shades that grow in my flower beds spring through fall. 

SPECIAL NOTICE!!!  ANOTHER GREAT DEAL FROM SPRING HILL NURSERY!!   Spring Hill Nursery Is offering $20 worth of plants FREE for a limited time only!!  Just go to their site springhillnursery.com  and choose the $20 worth of product you want.  You only pay the S/H.  I ordered 4 more of my favorite yellow Tree Lilies--I got 2 for $9.99, so I got 2 sets for $19.98.  They subtracted that from my order and I pay only the $12 for S/H.  I will plant the bulbs this fall.  This is a super deal! 

DIVIDING PERENNIALS

Dividing plants at the proper time ensures good success.  For spring-blooming perennials, it is best to divide them just after they have  finished blooming, or in early fall.  Fall perennials can be divided in early spring or fall, as well, after their bloom cycle is over.  They each have things I like best about that:  In early fall it gives the plants time to establish a good root system before the cold, winter weather arrives.  It gives the plants a jump start for the spring.  It also helps to clean up the beds in the fall (although I cut down most everything in the fall anyway) so spring clean up goes faster and is much easier.  But, if the plant doesn't get a good root system established, you'll most likely lose that plant.  Spring is easy because perennials will still be in a dormant stage, and the ground is usually softer and easier to remove the plant and its root system.  Some plants I prefer to divide in the fall are monarda, obedient plant, mums, 'steppable' ground covers,  bleeding heart, Jacob's ladder, lady's mantle and  iberis.  Spring is a good time to divide hosta, before they 'unfurl' their fingers.   July and August are the best times to divide your iris.  Just make sure you never divide a plant just before it's ready to bloom.  If you do that, you risk losing it because all of its energy is going to the bloom and not the roots.

These are some guidelines to follow when dividing your plants

• Never divide plants when it's hot, dry weather (like now!)
• Divide plants on a cool, or at least cloudy, day early in the spring
• When dividing in spring, divide plants before they have grown 5 inches or more--the earlier usually the better
• Don't plant too late in the fall or you'll risk losing the plant due to non-established roots
• If you know when you're dividing, soak the plant thoroughly for a few days
• If you're dividing in the fall, cut down the plant beforehand, it will make handling the plant much easier.
• Make sure the area you're going to move it to is well prepared so that you can quickly plant the new plant so its roots won't dry out.
• If you CAN'T plant immediately, pot it up and keep watered, or give to a friend who can plant it in their garden quickly. 
• Make sure the area you're planting in gets the proper amount of sun or shade, and water.
• If any of the plant is diseased, cut that portion out when dividing
• Make sure divisions are healthy, ensuring the best possible outcome for your transplant.
• After preparing your new area, make sure the plant is 'watered in' to help the soil settle and remove all the air pockets.  If there are air pockets, you risk the roots drying out and this could seriously stunt, or even kill the plant.

I'm always anxious to cut back, cut down, or transplant in the fall.   I watch the newly transplanted plants closely to make sure they don't dry out.  I mark them with plant labels and note any changes on my master list  of the beds.  Doing this also enables me to see where I've put my "temporary markers" for fall plantings of bulbs, etc.   This makes spring clean up much more manageable as well.   

YELLOWS IN THE GARDEN-THE UNIVERSAL COLOR

I love working with YELLOWS IN THE GARDEN.  Beginning first in the early spring with daffodils, tulips, forsythia and pansies, to the Crown Imperial, iris and lupine in late spring.  Next come the roses,then lilies of all kinds, then dahlias, glads and mums in summer to fall.   Yellow is the universal color--it goes with everything.  I prefer the lemon yellows in my beds, and I love it when the variety has white with it as well.  I think yellow and white is so fresh and clean and inviting.  The DAFFODILS I have are ICE FOLLIES-- a huge variety, with 4" flowers of icy white petals surrounding a frilled yellow crown.  It is a good forcer and is an award winner.  The yellow TULIPS I have are BIG SMILE--an award-winning single late tulip that is a clear yellow and tall-26-30".  It is considered one of the very best yellow tulips.  I also like CREME UPSTAR--a primrose yellow with a faint magenta-rose edge and an interior ivory-white base.  It is a peony tulip, resembling large peonies.  They are fully double and long-lasting in their blooms, as well as in cut flower arrangements.  In an earlier post, I have an arrangement of each pictured if you go back to my blog of Tuesday, June 1st.  Right now in the garden there is a new yellow ORIENTAL Lily that is absolutely amazing--GOLDEN STARGAZER--developed from the popular pink Stargazer.  They are like my tree lilies--this is their second year and they are 6 feet tall and have HUGE (and I do mean HUGE, maybe 12" across!), clear, beautiful, fragrant blooms--about 13 or so on each of the plants.  Their description didn't say they were to be this tall, but they are.  (Pink Stargazer isn't tall).  It is a new variety, and one company I order from, B&D Lilies, said they wouldn't offer it yet because it was a new variety that hadn't been proven yet.  Well, I can tell you, they are wonderful!  I actually ordered 4 more I liked them so well!   I ordered from Dutch Gardens  mail order catalog.  My favorite yellow DAHLIA is KELVIN'S FLOODLIGHT.  It is a dinner plate dahlia that is a bright lemon yellow, and reaches about 10-12" across.  It is  vigorous, and grows to about 4' tall.  Yellow is a fun color to work with.  I enjoy it all through the season in different plants with blooms of all shapes and sizes. This collage shows some of my favorite Yellows and Whites from the various beds in the yard. 

JAPANESE RICE STICK SALAD--SURE TO PLEASE!

About 30 years ago, a friend brought dinner to us.  She had the most wonderful salad-Japanese Rice Stick--and it has been a family favorite ever since!  We love to have it in the summer, with homemade rolls, some fruit, and a fun dessert like the eclair torte I posted a week or two ago.  If you've ever been to a neighborhood get-together, or special party at our house, you've tasted it!  It is one of the most requested salads I make, along with the Chicken Won Ton Salad.  If you haven't tasted it you'll have to try it.  The rice stick and the sesame oil just make it so unique and good.  I've tasted something like it in a few restaurants, but I think this recipe is the best one.  Anyway, we sure love it!

JAPANESE RICE STICK SALAD
1 head lettuce, broken
2 cucumbers (I always use 3)
1 bunch green onions, chopped
1 lb cooked, deveined shrimp
2 C fried rice stick (1/2 package)

Tear lettuce.  Cut cucumbers lengthwise, and remove seeds with a spoon, then slice.  Chop the green onions.  Set aside.  Either cook, clean and devein shrimp, or use frozen, deveined shrimp.  Remove tails.  Rinse and drain thoroughly.  (I usually put ice over the shrimp and refrigerate until ready to assemble the salad).  Fry rice stick by dropping 1/2 cup at a time in very hot oil (400 degrees) for ONLY A FEW SECONDS.  It will "pop" immediately.   Remove with tongs and place in a big paper towel-lined bowl.  Just before serving, add the shrimp to the greens.  Toss with dressing.  Add rice stick and toss again.  Serve immediately.  ENJOY!

DRESSING FOR JAPANESE RICE STICK SALAD
4 Tablespoons sugar
2 1/2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons MSG (I have omitted this before and didn't really notice a difference)
1 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup canola oil
2 tablespoons SESAME OIL
6 tablespoons vinegar

Combine all ingredients well and chill overnight or for 8 hours.  Just before serving, toss with salad greens and shrimp, then again with the rice stick.

COOL PINKS IN THE GARDEN

When planning your garden beds, color, shape, texture, size and design are all important.  As far as color goes,  personally, I like pinks, blues, whites and yellows together.  My garden reflects this preference.  I also use some corals, peaches, lavenders and purples.  I put together a collage of some of my very favorite pinks growing in our beds.  I will be posting collages of my favorite whites, blues, peaches, corals, and purples in future blogs.  This collage shows pinks from spring through fall.  All are in our flower beds in the yard.  I enjoy photographing them and then viewing them, especially to relax at night or during long winter days when I can't go out.  I love to put on some favorite music and view  the pictures as slide shows of my favorite blooms through the year.  

BABY'S BREATH-A BEAUTIFUL BACKDROP IN THE GARDEN OR BOUQUETS

If you've ever received a bouquet of flowers, you're familiar with BABY'S BREATH.  Baby's Breath may be small in the size of individual blooms, but they add much when it comes to their airy elegance in gardens as well as bouquets.  They bloom in abundance, in cloud-like mounds of bloom in the summertime.  The flowers bloom on loose, branched stems, and come in single or double-flowered cultivars. They also come in not only white, but pink, as well.  I have the white variety in my yard.  It is a very hardy, long-lived perennial, with blue-green narrow, lanced-shaped leaves.  My cultivar, Gypsophila paniculata, is about 4-5 feet tall, after 10 years of growth.  It's about 3-4 feet wide, and, if deadheaded, blooms from mid- to late summer.  It makes outstanding fresh or dried flowers!  To dry, all you need to do is hang it by bunches in a warm, dark place.  It needs full sun or very light shade in a site with evenly moist, but well-drained soil.  They have wide-ranging roots, and they don't like to be moved once planted.  Wet soil can be fatal--crown rot leads to short-lived plants.  So be sure to have it in a place that has good drainage.  Established plants are drought tolerant.  It's best to purchase by plants for the cultivar you want, because plants aren't true from seed, although they are easy to start from seed.  (NOTE:  I've never had seedlings come from mine in all the years I've had it).   I put mine in a big, tall cage in early spring to keep it upright throughout the season. (There are dwarf varieties that are smaller and don't need staking, or grow so big).   It looks especially nice as a backdrop to other plants.  I have mine in a group of pink monarda, white obedient plant, and tree lilies Garden Pleasures and Purple Prince.  If you make many arrangements, or need a beautiful backdrop to some of your treasured perennials, I highly recommend Baby's Breath.  I love having this valuable addition to the garden! 

HOLLYHOCKS

Although HOLLYHOCKS are officially biennials (life cycle of two years), hollyhocks reseed very easily, and so they can persist for a number of years.  To reseed, just crumble a few dry pods over the ground.  They need light to germinate, so just make sure they have a good seed-to-soil contact. (Be aware, though, that self-sown seeds will be variable).  They are very hardy  and usually grow anywhere from 4-6 feet tall.  They don't take up a lot of room, they are taller than they are wide, so it looks especially dramatic to plant them in groups.  I have found that in richer soil they may need to be staked, so ordinary soil is probably the best--what you would grow your vegetables in. They come in a host of colors, and come in single blooms as well as double blooms.  I have three double blooms that I think are gorgeous--Peaches and Dream, a peach with raspberry veining bloom; Newport, a clear bubblegum pink; and Prosperity, an absolute beautiful pristine white. I have had others in the past--all singles, but I prefer the doubles.   They do best in full sun, or at least 6 hours, and because they grow so tall, against some protection from the wind like a fence, side of hedge or building.  Too much water can be fatal--they are pretty drought tolerant.  They have few problems.  They can get rust--caused by a fungus.  The leaves turn yellow and fall off.  If you remove the stems as soon as you see it, and make sure to keep fallen leaves cleaned up, you can lessen the problem.  You can also dust the plants, starting in spring, with sulfur (be sure to dust the underside).  They also get a little pest--a long-snouted little beetle.  I've noticed that the problem is significantly greater in their second year of growth  (another reason they are biennials--the 2nd year growth is usually weaker). They chew holes in the leaves, making them look lacy, and they can eat the flowers.  Spray  with pyrethrin with 1 tablespoon of rubbing alcohol per pint of diluted mixture.   I have seen hollyhocks in large clumps in English-type gardens, and they are simply wonderful, especially the single old-fashioned-looking ones!  I wish I had the room to have such a display!  I have several starts of hollyhock left, if you're interested, let me know.  

TIPS FOR SAFE USE OF PESTICIDES

• Read the label and follow the instructions exactly
• Wear gloves, and if recommended, goggles; always protect your skin
• If you are mixing your own presticide, always keep container for that presticide only
• Avoid inhaling any of the vapors or dust from the pesticide
• Wash thoroughly after using a pesticide
• If you spill some on yourself, immediately wash it off
• Never spray on a windy day; it could drift into your gardens or outdoor living areas
• Don't apply pesticide when others, especially kids, are present
• Don't eat, drink, or anything like that, before you wash your hands completely
• In case of enlarged pupils, blurred vision, dizziness, severe headache, or nausea, contact your physician immediately
• use harsh pesticides only in the case of a severe INFESTION--TRY A STRONG STREAM OF WATER, INSECTICIDAL SOAP, OR HAND-PICKING INSECTS OFF. 

Encourage birds in your yard by providing places for them to feed, bath and nest.  Birds consume insect pests.  Spiders (yes, spiders!), lady bugs, and preying mantis' also eat the pesky litle things.  Go out at night and hand pick snails, slugs and  beetles.  Put them in a zip lock bag and dispose of them. These are natural ways to control insect pests.  Before using any pesticide, it's always a good idea to check with a garden supply store or call the Utah State Extension Service to see what pesticide is available for a specific problem.

BEE BALM - MONARDA

Bee Balm (Monarda)  I've heard some say that Bee Balm is hard to grow. It's actually very easy to grow if conditions are right.  Bee Balm is a hardy perennial, growing about 3 feet high.  It doesn't do well in places with warm winters (so it does very well here).  I have it growing equally well in sun or light shade.  It does spread, however.  If you don't want it to, plant it in a buried bucket, or provide some kind of barrier so that the spreading roots can't creep beyond where  you want it to  grow.  It should be divided every couple of years to keep it vigorous.  It  has a pleasant, strong fresh mint-like smell.  If you deadhead immediately after it blooms, cutting down to where new shoots  are emerging, you will get a rebloom on your plants.  There are several colors to choose from.  Out of the several cultivars, my favorite is a bubblegum pink called Marshall's Delight.  It is in bloom  right now.  It will bloom again later on in the season.  I always cut mine down to the ground in the fall.    I enjoy the unusual look of Monarda--it looks like a crown with an explosion of color coming from it.  I recommend it for your gardens if you don't already have it.

ANNUALS

Taking care of annuals is easy as long as you follow some important steps:

• Buy your annuals as close to the time you are going to plant them as possible.  If you can't plant them right away, be sure to water them every day.
• Most annuals grow better and bloom earlier if they ARE NOT in bud or bloom when planted.
• Look for healthy, dark green plants; make sure they aren't tall and spindly.
• Make sure your plants have been watered when you take them out of their plastic pots or flat.  If they don't fall out easily, push them up from the bottom.  If they're in peat pots, you can plant the entire pot, but I always cut out the bottom and make a few breaks in the sides.  Also, make sure the edge of the pot is BELOW the soil level.
• Plant by watering the ground, then stabbing your trowel in the soil and pulling the soil towards you.  Set the plant in, remove the trowel, press the soil around the roots firmly, leaving a slight depression around the stem to trap the water.
• Plant late in the day, or on a cloudy afternoon to reduce transplanting shock.  (Petunias don't seem to mind being planted in sun, however).
• Care for your transplants by watering well after planting, and again daily for about a week until they are well estalished.  Gradually reduce watering to once a week.  NOTE:  Make sure you don't over-water, though, because you could actually "drown" the plant if it becomes water logged.
• Most annuals like a light application of fertilizer, like 5-10-5 or 4-12-4.  Ideally, it should be worked into the beds before planting, but a light side dressing can also be applied.
• Water about 1 inch of water per week.  If it is extra hot, or WINDY, you may need to water more  (wind really dries out the soil).
• Pinch back the growing point with your thumbnail and index finger to make the plant bushier.
• Deadhead regularly to prevent formation of seeds, which drain the plant of its energy.
• Succession plant if necessary to keep flowers all season long.  (To have a continued supply of color, plant several batches of annuals, about 2 weeks apart.  I do this with my gladiola corms, as well).

Annuals are a fun part of the garden to give that continued "lift" of color that we need in a garden full of perennials.    My favorite to use are petunias, lisianthus, spider flower, zinnias,  lantana, hollyhock and foxglove. (The last two are really biennials, but I treat them as annuals).  I have had them all at one time or another in the garden, and they all did well.  Lisianthus is hard to grow from seed, however, having about a 60-70% failure rate from seed. Plants are the way to go, but they are a little pricey because of their failure rate.  I also grow hollyhocks and foxglove as annuals because they take two years to bloom usually, and then they die back or just don't look as good after that.  Have them in two stages--a first year plant and a second year plant if you always want one blooming. 

ECLAIR TORTE--A YUMMY, EASY, BEAUTIFUL DESSERT!

This recipe for a delicious ECLAIR TORTE has been in our family for some years now.  It is a basic eclair recipe, formed into a circle on a pizza pan, split, filled, then topped and drizzled with a homemade hot fudge sauce.  Try it--it's one of those recipes that is sure to impress--yet so easy and pretty quick!  You'll always get requests for it, I guarantee!

DOUGH:  1 Cup water
                 1/2 Cup BUTTER (1 cube)
                 1 Cup flour
                 4 eggs

Bring water and butter to a boil.  Dump in flour and stir until blended and it forms a ball.  Remove from heat and beat in eggs, 1 at a time, mixing well.  Form the paste into a ring on UNGREASED pizza pan or stone, leaving a 1 1/2" edge.  Bake at 400 degrees for 30-40 minutes, or until lightly browned.  Cool completely, on a wire rack, then split horizontally and fill.

FILLING:  2 3-oz. pkgs. INSTANT vanilla pudding 
                 1 8-oz. Cool Whip
                 2 1/2 Cup cold milk
                 1 tsp pure vanilla extract

HOT FUDGE SAUCE:    4 Tbls cocoa
                                          2 Cup sugar
                                          4 Tbls Flour
                                          1 can EVAPORATED milk
                                          1/2 Cup BUTTER
                                          1 tsp vanilla extract

Mix together and bring to a boil over medium heat. Stir and boil for 3-5 minutes.  Pour into a quart jar.  Can be stored in the refrigerator for 3 months.  For hot fudge topping, warm up in microwave for a minute.  For topping for Eclair Torte, drizzle warm sauce over top of torte.  Refrigerate.  (This will make more than you'll need for the torte) 

NOTE:  I like to cut mine into 'slices' before I fill the torte.  To do this, after you've split the torte horizontally, mark the top of the bottom and the top torte with a toothpick.  Cut into how many pieces you want to serve, (I usually divide mine into 12 servings--the one pictured was cut into 16, because that's how many my son, Cole, needed for a party.  But, I think 12 looks nicer). Take off the top pieces, keeping it in the order you've cut it, so your pieces will match up, and spoon chilled filling onto each serving, using all of the filling equally among the 12 slices.  Top with the pre-cut top pieces.  Drizzle hot fudge onto each piece.  In this way, to serve all you need to do is use a pie server and you won't 'squish' the torte when cutting, and the hot fudge isn't messy.            

   

ASIATIC LILIES

ASIATIC LILIES generally bloom from Mid-June to mid-July, although this year they're a little later because of the late, cold spring we had.  Some Asiatics last until as late as August.  Asiatics are probably the most popular and commonly planted of the early-blooming lilies.  They usually have 4-6" blooms and plants range in height of 2-5'.  I have cultivars that point upward, outward and even downward.  They come in a wide range of colors.  I have pinks, yellows, whites, reds, and oranges.  They are usually not fragrant, but I have one called "RED ALERT" that is fragrant.  I don't have to stake any of my Asiatics, however, some cultivars may have to be.  They are planted as  bulbs usually in the fall, although they can be planted in early spring as well.  They provide much color and can be very dramatic in your beds.  What I really like about Asiatic Lilies is that they multiply each year, make great cut flowers, and you can plant many throughout your beds--they don't take up much room, growing up, not out.  They can be grown in sun or shade, and they are pretty disease resistant, and as long as they are not over-watered, and planted soon after getting them (because they can dry out quickly), I think they are one of the easiest of all bulbs to grow and take care of.  They like to be fed with a balanced fertilizer in early spring, when their shoots first appear. Cut their stalks to the ground in fall.  I love lilies of all kinds--and I'm always eager for the showy, exotic-looking blooms the Asiatics bring when summer starts!

SUMMER PLANTS BRING MUCH NEEDED COLOR!

As the DAYLILIES and the early ORIENTAL LILIES have started to bloom, it's nice to see some color in the yard again.  Here are some of my favorite shots of the upper bed and the back rock garden, which I have cleaned up.  There are three major beds that stilll need to be cleaned up.  With the hot days, I have limited time to garden--either early morning or late evening are the times that I like best.  I have planted a few annuals in the back--only a few petunias.  The extra divisions and seedlings are finally gone--with the exception of a several lupine seedlings.  If you're interested, please let me know via 'comments' on this blog.  I'd love to share!   Have a great day!

THE TIME TO PLANT OR DIVIDE TALL BEARDED IRIS

Iris grow from RHIZOMES, not bulbs, and so we don't wait until fall to plant them.  Unlike other perennials, they can be planted, transplanted and divided any time now, through August.  I start dividing and planting now.  This gives the rhizomes a great start, and ensures that their roots will have plenty of time to be well established by the time colder climates arrive and the growing season is over.  I think it's easier to transplant or divide them now, because the root systems of the new fans are less mature, making them easier to pull or divide.  Pick a place where it's sunny--they need at least 6 hours of sunlight a day.  And it's very important that the place you choose has good drainage--standing water is fatal to iris.  If you need to, raise the bed a little, and plant on a mound, to keep the water drained away from the rhizomes.  Another important thing to remember is to not plant them too deeply; they like the tops of their rhizomes  exposed to the sun.  I plant mine with a small handful of triple super phosphate. Spread their roots out, and water them in.  Make sure they get enough moisture when establishing root, but make sure you don't water too much, they will rot if you do.  Plant them anywhere from 1 foot to 2 feet apart--the closer you plant them, the sooner they will need to be divided.  I plant mine closer, because I'm willing to divide sooner, and also because I don't have the room for large clumps of individual iris--I have 161, and have them interspersed with other perennials in the beds where I can't have large clumps.  So, I plant mine 12 inches apart, and divide every 2-3 years, depending on the cultivar and its' growth.  If iris are allowed to become overcrowded, the blooms will suffer, as well as the vigor of the plant.  Once they are established, iris don't really need to be watered except for times of  drought-like conditions.  Iris like a neutral pH.  Here in Utah they do very well, and no fertilization is really needed.  But, if you do want to fertilize, a light side-dressing of 5-10-10, 6-10-10, bonemeal, or, my favorite, super triple phosphate, can be used in early spring, about a month before they bloom, and they can benefit from a fall dressing of bonemeal.   After they are established, they really need minimal care.  In fall, just cut their leaves into a fan, to about 6-8", unless their leaves are diseased or damaged, and if they are, cut off immediately.   Never use anything high in nitrogen, as it will rot the rhizomes.  Now is a good time to order or trade iris.  It's also a good time to revamp your iris beds if needed.   If you're not dividing or thinning, remember to break off the old bloom stems right to the ground; that stem will never grow and bloom again.  If you plant new rhizomes, and live in a colder climate region it is recommended that you give them some winter protection--just make sure you remove it in early  spring. 

APRICOT CHICKEN

My daughter-in-law, Nathalie, served a great dish the other night--and it's SO easy!  It's Apricot Chicken, and I think you'll like how easy and tasty it is!

4-5 Boneless, Skinless Chicken breasts
1 8-oz. jar bottled apricot preserves (or use homemade if you have it)
1 packet Lipton's Onion Soup mix
1 8-oz. bottle Russian Dressing

Thaw breasts and cut in half.  Combine preserves, Russian dressing and the dry onion soup mix.  Coat chicken. Marinate.  (I prepared mine in the morning and marinated it all day in gallon ziplock bags until about an hour before I needed it). Remove from bag and place, chicken and all the marinade, in an oven-proof 1 1/2 qt. dish.  Bake at 350 for 45-1 hour, depending on your oven.  Serve over cooked, drained noodles  (I used the same ones she did-- no yolk dumpling noodles).  Save the sauce and pour over cooked chicken and noodles.   

LOW MAINTENANCE PERENNIAL PLANTS

Is there really such a thing as a low-maintenance perennial garden?   The answer is "Yes."  All plants require at least a little care, but if you plant plants with the following characteristics, you'll have minimal care:

• Division needed no more frequently than every 4 years
• Hardy to -20 degrees without winter protection
• High degree of tolerance for pests (no spraying necessary)
• Stakes not necessary
• Tolerates a wide range of soils
• Leaves are attractive through the season, or leaves hidden by surrounding plants
• Doesn't spread by runners, or self sows (not invasive)

These are some of the perennials I have that I know are low maintenance: 

• 
  
  Baby's Breath
• Balloon flower
• Bleeding Heart
• Candytuft
• Lupine
• Coneflower
• Coralbells
• Daylily
• Goatsbeard
• Helebore
• Hibiscus
• Hosta
• Jacob's Ladder
• Lady's Mantle
• Lily of the Valley
• Lungwort
• Meadow Rue
• Oriental Poppy
• Peony
• Pincushion flower
• Phlox
• Siberian Iris
• Speedwell
• Solomon's Seal
• Virginia Bluebells

IS WEEDING REALLY IMPORTANT?

I wish I could tell you that weeding wasn't important at all, but weeds actually compete for light, water and nutrients from your plants.  In addition, they can harbor insects and disease.  Weeds usually spread by seeds, so it's important to pull weeds before they flower.  After they flower and go to seed, their seeds fall, or are blown in the wind (think of dandelions!), and they sprout.  It would be good if plants reseeded as easily as most weed seeds!  There are ways you can weed:  I prefer hand-pulling, although you can use a hoe or spade.  One thing that really cuts down on weeds is mulch.  When you mulch an area, the weeds usually find it hard to grow--there is no light to aid in germination.  Another thing about mulch is it keeps the soil cool and moist, reducing the need for watering, and, of course, it does add a decorative touch to your bed.  Some people use black plastic as a mulch.  It does cut down on weeds pretty well.  Just make sure you punch holes in the plastic so your plants' roots are watered.  After you put the plastic down, cover it with bark, rocks, etc.  Some people use grass clippings as a mulch, but, just remember, grass clippings may have weed seeds in; in addition, grass clippings generate a lot of heat when it decomposes, which could damage your plants' roots.  I actually like to weed, providing the ground is loose and not hard as a rock.  Right now I have hundreds of tiny "Elm Trees" that have germinated.  They are easy to pull up.  The bind weed isn't so easy--you seldom can get bind weed by its roots.   Larry Sagers  (KSL Garden Show, Saturday mornings at 8:00 on KSL 102.7 FM) suggests using a big gallon milk container, with a hole cut out of the bottom.  Place over the bind weed and apply Round Up.  (Round Up can't be applied when it is too hot, however.  Do this in the fall, when the weed is flowering).  Round Up is especially potent, though, so don't use it when any wind is present, and keep the milk jug over the weed to shield the Round Up from getting on any plants, or you may cause serious problems to your plants and even to your neighbors'--I had a neighbor use Round Up on some weeds in his yard by my lilac tree, and it ended up dying.  Whatever method you choose, keep weeds to a bare minimum, for healthier, prettier, and more lush garden beds.    

STARTING SEEDS

Midsummer is a great time to SOW THE SEEDS of many perennials.  In fact, the reason midsummer is so good is because some seeds need to be sown as soon as they are ripe--they dry out quickly, and so to ensure germination, they must be sown.  Another reason is because this gives the new seedlings a good chance to start, reach a size that they can make it through the winter, and then you'll have bigger, sturdier plants the following spring.  Right now I have been saving the seed of the lupine, delphinium and columbine.  I have found that the bleeding heart are a little trickier to start.  You need to keep in mind, however, that sowing seeds doesn't always give you the desired results--some plants aren't true to their parent plant--like columbine and hollyhock.   Some will be close, though.  Others can be very different.  If you want an exact duplicate of your plants, you can either take a cutting  or division of your plant.  Seeds that are "true to seed" will usually tell you in the information about the plant.  When you scatter the seed, don't sow too thickly; seedlings that are too crowded won't be as healthy or strong as those that are farther apart.  Some seeds need light to germinate, like lupine, columbine, bells of Ireland, and hollyhock. Make sure they have a good seed-to-soil contact.  Others need to have a thin layer of soil over them, as darkness is necessary for germination, like delphinium, phlox or larkspur.  For very small seeds, just press lightly into the soil.  I prefer to sow my seeds for hardy perennials outdoors.  I didn't have much luck with indoor sowing.  I usually mark the spot where I sprinkle seeds, and natural rainfall, or soaker hose watering will usually take care of them, but keep an eye on them, sometimes extra watering is needed in the first weeks.  Some perennials will germinate a just a few weeks, like hollyhock; others may take months before they appear, as in the bells of Ireland.  When they have developed their first pair of true leaves (all seedlings will start with a pair of "seed leaves"),  they can be transplanted where you want them.  I usually put them in small peat pots, which makes it much easier to water and keep them viable.   I transplant on cool, cloudy days, or even when it's raining, is best.    I save my seed that I'm not using in marked envelopes in the refrigerator.  I have found the seed can germinate up to  even a year, although I recommend planting the seed right away for best results.  Last year I sowed lupine, forget-me-nots, and love-in-a-mist seeds.  I think every one germinated--I had millions of seedlings!! I gave hundreds away, and still have some--so if you're interested, please let me know!  I have just three seedlings from my bleeding heart--they seem harder to germinate.  The love-in-a-mist was very plentiful!!!  I've have to thin  it out considerably.  At any rate, sowing seed is one of the funnest things to do in your gardens.  Any unwanted seedlings are easy to remove, or transplant, and it saves you money, but best of all, it gives you great pleasure in growing something from seed!  If you haven't tried sowing seeds, I hope  you will try--I know you'll be pleasantly surprised!